Tubey variation

I love Tubey, but I wanted a higher neckline. So, here's my variation of Tubey with an underarm seam and a square garter stitch neckline. The neckline goes down further in back, but not as far in front as the original. I also put in fewer stripes. The underarm seam plus the neckline construction make the neck front higher.

Gauge: 4 sts and 6 rows per inch
Materials: This pullover used 1 skein Dark Sage Red Heart Super Saver (7 oz, 364 yds), 1 skein Espresso Caron (7 oz, 355 yds), and 1 skein Claret Red Heart Super Saver (7 oz, 364 yds).

Notes: I was intending to have the striping on both the TUBE and SHRUG SLEEVE to be essentially the same. However, it turned out that the Espresso was running out as I was working on the TUBE (I'd already made one stripe of Espresso per sleeve.), and so I decided to have Claret for the bottom half of each sleeve instead of Espresso.

I made the SHRUG SLEEVEs a little bigger around at the top than I would if this were a raglan – in fact, by about an inch . It was an accident, but I'm glad that I did for the fit at the shoulder.

I use s1 instead of sl1 for slip one to avoid confusing myself. (Also, unless otherwise stated, I used a single cast on. I've been using it for dishcloths and like how unobtrusive it is.)

Where the numbers come from: The important numbers in this pattern are the number of sts around for the TUBE (176 sts, which is divisible by 8), the number of sts around at the top of the SHRUG SLEEVE (60 sts), and the length of the underarm cast on (11 sts). (The underarm cast on will work as small as zero sts but shouldn't be any larger than around 1/15th of the number of sts for the TUBE part.) All the other numbers come from these. The number of sts cast on for the SHRUG MIDDLE is 60 – 11 or 49. Take 176, divide it by 4, multiply the result by 3, and then subtract twice 11. This gives the number of rows for the SHRUG MIDDLE (110 rows). (Also, 110 plus twice 11 is the 132, which is the circumference of the TUBE, before the increase rnd.) These 110 rows are divided into thirds after subtracting the 16 rows for the side neck edgings, with 30 rows for the sides and 34 for the middle (which are all divisible by 2). The cast on for the SHRUG MIDDLE (continued) is 17, which is half of 34. The “k25” in Rows 32, etc. of the SHRUG MIDDLE is just over half of 49. The “21” in Rows 38 and 73 is 4 less than 25.

Directions:
SHRUG MIDDLE:
CO49 (using a crochet provisional cast on) – in Dark Sage
Row 1 (RS): s1, k48
Row 2 (WS): s1, p48
Repeat Rows 1 and 2. Then:
Row 31 (RS) s1, k across, end w k2tog, k1
Row 32 (WS): s1, k25, p to end
Repeat Rows 31 and 32. Then:
Row 37 (RS) s1, k across, end w k2tog, k1 (45 sts)
Row 38 (WS) s1 to begin BO of 21 sts, k4, p19 (24 sts – the last bind off leaves a loop on the needle)
Row 39 (RS) s1, k23
Row 40 (WS) s1, k4, p19
Repeat Rows 39 and 40. Then:
Row 73 (RS) s1, k23, CO 21 (45 sts)
Row 74 (WS) s1, k25, p to end
Row 75 (RS) s1, k across, end k row w kfb (an increase made by knitting in the front and then back of a st), k1
Repeat Rows 74 and 75. Then:
Row 82 (WS): s1, p48
Repeat Rows 1 and 2. Then:
Row 111 (RS): s1, k48, co 11 (60 sts)

SHRUG SLEEVE: Start knitting in the round.
Rnds 1-8: k around
Rnd 9: k around, end w ssk, k1.
Rnd 10: k1, k2tog, k to end
Repeat Rnds 1-10 to 50 sts,. Then knit without decreasing to cuff, changing colors as desired.
Rnds 1-45 in Dark Sage
Rnds 46 – 51 in Espresso
Rest in Claret – for me (with short arms), to 91st rnd.

Cuff:
*K4, k2tog, k4* to end of round, ending w knit sts
P around then k around 3 times, then purl around once more (to match the garter st neckline). Bind off. (I used a single bind off, knitting into each purl st to bind off.) -- The cuff edging matches the neck edging.

Other Shrug Sleeve:
Carefully undo crochet sts and put the other sides of the CO sts onto circ needle. Knit these sts. Then co 11 (or possibly 12) using single cast on. (60 sts on needle) (Sometimes this provisional cast on gives me the number originally cast on, sometimes one fewer.)
Follow directions for SHRUG SLEEVE.

SHRUG MIDDLE (continued):
Starting at the right side of the neck opening (the last st of Row 73), pick up and knit 1 st, CO 17 using single cast on, pick up and knit the equivalent st on the other side of the neck opening (the first “st” of Row 38). (Pick up and knit the sts here by pulling the yarn through both loops of the slip st edging from WS to RS.) Turn.
*Slip 1, k across, pick up and knit one st (the st below the one previously picked up). Turn.*
Repeat * to * until there are 27 sts on needle.

TUBE:
Slip 1, k26, pick up and knit 14 sts from the left front of the garment, pick up and knit 11 sts from the left sleeve, pick up and knit 55 sts from the garment back, pick up and knit 11 sts from the right sleeve, pick up and knit 14 sts from the right front of the garment. (132 sts)

(To pick up and knit for the front and back, first pick up the sts by sliding, for example, a size 3 circular needle through the back/WS loops of the sts to be picked up, count the loops to make sure it's the correct number, then knit the loops off of the smaller needle untwisted. To pick up and knit for the underarm, identify the sts that were cast on, then use a crochet hook to pull the yarn from the WS to the RS through the tops of the sts.)

Then:
*k1, m1p, k2* around (176 sts)
(To m1p, I did *k1, yo, k2* in this round and then *k1, p the yo twisted, k2* in the next. Then:)
*k1, p1, k2* around (176 sts)

Continue this k3p1 ribbing until garment is desired length.

Change colors as desired, making changes under right armhole.
Rnds 1 – 14 in Dark Sage
Rnds 15 – 21 in Espresso
Rnds 22 – 32 in Claret
Rest in Espresso (for me, to 78th rnd, but I'm short)
Bind off. (I used a single bind off, knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts.)
edited to re-add pictures to directions

sleeve for Dec 2006 raglan

First, some instructions and pictures on smocking in the round on 2 circular needles:

The sleeves are pretty straighforward except for the smocking, especially the smocking over 2 needles. I like 2 circs better than Magic Loop or dpn's. To smock over 2 needles, put the needle points of the 2 needles together, pointing the same direction, and draw the yarn through as if there were just one needle. I used longer circs and so left a "Magic loop" between the sts that had been worked and the sts that are now to be worked. Then finish off the sts with the first circular. Use the second circ to work the rest of the sts that were smocked, being careful to keep the horizontal yarn on the correct sides. The first pic is placing the needle between sts in order to draw it through. The second is putting this yarn onto the circ, and the third is starting to knit the yarn and st together.

Now, to continue the pattern from the previous post:

Sleeves:
Starting at the middle of the 18 sts that were cast on, pick up and knit 9 sts. Return the last st knitted to the left-hand needle. Pass the next st (This st was put on scrap.) over the st. Slip the st back to the right-hand needle. K68. Slip the next st (This st was put on scrap.). Pick up and knit 1 st. Pass slipped st over. Pick up and knit 8 sts. (end of rnd, 86 sts on needle)
Rounds 1-7: K around
Round 7: K around to third to last st, ssk, k1
Round 8: K1, k2tog, k around

Repeat rounds 1-8 until the sleeve comes to the elbow (about 50% of total usual sleeve length). This gives a bit of room around the elbow. Though, if desired, the full length sleeve can be worn pushed up to ¾ length with sort of a puffy sleeve for the top. (I worked it to the 52nd rnd, but then I have short arms.) Then:

Do smocking pattern – except decrease 2 sts about every 8th rnd, as follows, ending on Rnd 2 or 6. Then bind off as for the main part of the garment:
(Note: I started with the pattern for a rnd 1 of 74 sts = 2 mod 8 sts = 2 plus a multiple of 8 sts)

Smock over 6:Insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st onleft needle

Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 0 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 6 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5: *P1, k2, p1* around.
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6, k1, p2, k2 , p1* around.
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog, p1, *p1, k2, p1* around, p1, ssk, p1
Rnd 7: P1, k1, *p2, k2* around, p2, k1, p1
Rnd 8: *P1, k2 (first repeat, k1), p2, smock over 6 (last repeat, smock over 4), k1 (last repeat, no k1), p1* around. (For the last repeat, the 4th and 5th sts on the left needle are beyond the end of the round.).

Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 6 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 4 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:: P1, k1, *p2, k2* around, p2, k1, p1
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6 (first and last repeats, smock over 5), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2, k2 (last repeat, k1), p1* around.
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog, *p1, k2, p1* around, ssk, p1
Rnd 7: P1, k1, *P1, k2, p1* around, k1, p1.
Rnd 8: *P1, k2 (first repeat, k1), p2 (first repeat, p1), smock over 6 (last repeat, smock over 4), k1 (last repeat, no k1), p1* around.

Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 4 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 2 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:: P1, k1, *P1, k2, p1* around, k1, p1.
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6 (first repeat, smock over 4), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2 (first and last repeats, p1), k2 (last repeat, k1), p1* around.
(Alternate Rnd 4: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, *p1, smock over 6, k1, p2, k2, p1* around, p1, smock over 10, k1, p1, k1, p1.)
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog,*k2, p2* around, k2, ssk, p1
Rnds 7, 9,10, 11: P1, k1, *k2, p2* around, k3, p1.
Rnd 8: *P1, smock over 6 (first and last repeats, smock over 7), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2, k2 (last repeat, k3), p1* around.
Rnd 12: *P1, k2 (first repeat, k3), p2, smock over 6 (last repeat, smock over 8) , k1 (last repeat, k2), p1* around.

Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 2 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 0 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:: P1, k1, *k2, p2* around, k3, p1.
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6 (first and last repeats, smock over 7), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2, k2 (last repeat, k3), p1* around.
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog, *k1, p2, k1* around, ssk, p1
Rnd 7: *P1, k2, p1* around.
Rnd 8: *P1, k2, p2, smock over 6, k1, p1* around.

Top-down Crew-Neck Pullover

Top-down Crew-Neck Pullover
This is a slightly wider neck raglan with a crew neck knitted from the top down and in the round with size 3 needles. The neckline is done in garter stitch. The lower half of the pullover plus the sleeves below the elbow is from the Smock pullover pattern in Knitty.com.

Notes:
My gauge for Mystic Inca yarn (after washing) is 6 sts and 8 rows per inch w size 3 needles.
The raglan seams are 3 sts wide and consist of k3 on the RS -- p3 on the WS. Excluding the raglan seams, each sleeve initially consists of 10 sts, and the back 44 sts. There are initially 10 more sts to the front than the back. This difference disappears as yo's are made to the back but not the front.
The first line, in effect, says to knit the left sleeve, the left-back seam, the back, the right-back seam, and the right sleeve and then to wrap the yarn around 1 st of the front-right seam and then to turn the work. The second line says to purl all the sts knit in the previous row, making increases next to the raglan seams, and then wrap the yarn around 1 st of the front-left seam, before turning the work. In subsequent rows, previously wrapped sts are also knit or purled at the end of a row before wrapping the next stitch and turning. Stitches from the front seams and the garment front are picked up one or more sts at a time until the front neckline is low enough.
The yo increases should be knitted twisted in the next, RS, row or round. The direction of the yo is important, as well. It should be: \ seam / , when looking at the top of the needle from the RS. It will look like: / seam \ , when looking at the top of the needle from the WS.
For worsted weight with 4 sts and 6 rows per inch, cast on 86. Allot 3 sts per seam, 4 per sleeve, 28 for the back, 38 for the front. Co 10 at each underarm to give a garment circumference of 160 sts. The first row of the sleeve then has 56 sts in total.

Neckline:
CO 130, join
k one rnd, p one rnd 7 times.

Upper garment:
k70, w&t.
yo, p10, yo, p3, yo, p44, yo, p3, yo, p10, yo, w&t
k77, w&t. (The change in the sts knit comes from the yo's and the w&t's.)
p1, yo, p12, yo, p3, yo, p46, yo, p3, yo, p12, yo, p1, w&t
k85, w&t
p2, yo, p14, yo, p3, yo, p48, yo, p3, yo, p14, yo, p2, w&t
k93, w&t
p3, yo, p16, yo, p3, yo, p50, yo, p3, yo, p16, yo, p3, w&t
(front raglan seams now fully formed)

k101, w&t
p4, yo, p18, yo, p3, yo, p52, yo, p3, yo, p18, yo, p4, w&t
(number of st in back now equal to front)

k109, w&t
p2, yo, p3, yo, p20, yo, p3, yo, p54, yo, p3, yo, p20, yo, p3, yo, p2, w&t
k119, w&t
p4, yo, p3, yo, p22, yo, p3, yo, p56, yo, p3, yo, p22, yo, p3, yo, p4, w&t
k129, w&t

Continue in this manner until there are only 24-30 sts (4-5" worth of sts -- I chose 26 sts) left in front that haven't been worked -- in which case do not w&t on the last RS row. Instead start knitting in the round, as follows:

Note: When coming to the wrapped st that hasn't been worked yet, pick the wrap up and knit it with the adjacent/preceding st instead of the st it was wrapped around.

Rnd 1: *k to next "k3 seam", yo, k3, yo, k to next "k3 seam", yo, k3, yo* twice
Rnd 2: k around

Alternate Rnd's 1 and 2 until there are 58 sleeve sts (excluding the seam).
Then do Rnd 2 thrice followed by Rnd 1 until there are 66 sleeve sts.
Then do only Rnd 2 until top of garment is desired length. Then

*k to next "k3 seam", k1, co18, put next 70 sts on a spare circ needle or yarn (for the sleeve)* twice, k to 1 st before middle of left underarm. This (the left side) is now where rnds start and end. (240 total sts for garment)

Lower garment:
K around for 8 rnds (about 1").
Start smocking pattern, working the pattern on the RS and in the round (The original pattern is worked flat.):

Smocking Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, & 7: *P2, k2* 60 times.
Rnd 4: *P2, smock (--insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st on left needle), k1, p2, k2* 30 times.
Rnd 8: *P2, k2, p2, smock (--insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st on left needle), k1* 30 times. (For the last repeat, the 6th and 7th sts on the left needle are beyond the end of the round.).

End with Rnd 2 or 6. Bind off loosely (single bind off, purl p sts, knit k sts).

Sleeves:
The directions for the sleeves are too complicated and lengthy to be added in this post. Instead, they are in my next post:

http://carol-myknittingpage.blogspot.com/2007/01/sleeve-for-dec-2006-raglan.html

sock toes and heels

Here are some general ideas on toes and heels. I've found that I like them curved instead of straight. In general, for a toe, my current favorite is to cast on about an inch of sts using the Turkish cast on, then determine the number of increase rounds needed. Do increase rounds every round for the first half of the increase rounds needed. Increase every other round for the rest less two. Then increase every third round twice. Finally, if needed for the top, make increases on top For example:

Wrap yarn around 2 circ needles 9 times. k9 off of top needle. k9 off of bottom needle.
R1: k1, m1, k..., m1, k1 on top needle, k1, m1, k...., m1, k1 on bottom needle.
Repeat R1 to 19 sts on each needle
Alternate R2 (k across) with R1 to a total of 25 sts per needle
Do R2, R2, R1 to a total of 29 sts per needle
Do R2 on top needle and k across on lower needle. (31 sts on top, 29 on bottom)

My favorite heel is the Widdershins heel. It's a toe-up heel-flap heel with no sts to pick up. To make calculations for the heel, determine the number of rows desired for the heel flap (in the example below, 28 rows). Then determine how wide you want the bottom of the heel (in the example below, 23 sts). Finally, decided how wide you want the heel flap (in the example below, 31 sts).

Approximately 4" (for me) before the end of the foot, start making gusset increases as in the Widdershins pattern. For a heel flap of 28 rows and 31 sts wide and a bottom heel 23 sts wide, increase to 51 (= 28 + 23) sts then work this variation of the Widdershins heel on the middle 23 sts. (The middle 23 sts become the heel flap. The 14 sts on either side are the left and right gussets.)
Row 1: k to 2 sts before end of heel sts, inc1, k1, turn
Row 2: s1, p to 2 sts before end of heel sts, inc1, p1, turn
Row 3: s1, k to 3 sts before gap, inc1, k1, turn
Row 4: s1, p to 3 sts before gap, inc1, p1, turn
Rep rows 3 and 4 until there are 29 heel sts (2 fewer than final heel flap size). Then
s1, k to 4 (or 5) sts before gap, inc1, k1, turn
s1, p to 4 (or 5) sts before gap, inc1, p1, turn

(The numbers in red are a change from the original.) Then to make the heel flap:
Row 1: s1, k to last heel st, ssk last heel st and 1 st from left gusset
Row 2: s 1, p to last heel st, p2tog last heel st and 1 st from right gusset

Note: The chart is an old one -- made before I switched from numbering from the top down to from the bottom up.

Karen's Sugar-Free Diabetes Walk Socks

Karen's Sugar-Free Diabetes Walk Socks  is an easily knit cabled sock from KnittinMom in sportweight yarn for size 3 needles (or thereabouts).  Proceeds from the sale of the pattern will aid in the fight against diabetes.

tweed-stitch v-neck

I've frogged my DHs languishing sweater to the neck ribbing and am now working it in tweed stitch. Here are the first few rows -- because I'm surprised at how well it's working out. Photo added 8/21/06 is of my DS modeling the sweater. (I'm planning on giving my DH the sweater for Christmas -- though the original sweater I had planned to have ready for his birthday a couple of years ago.)

Note: s1 is slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front.

CO 90 sts (= 7 + 33 + 7 + 43). Place markers after 7th, 40th, 47th, 67th, 71st, and 90th sts.

Ribbing:
R1: *p1, k1* in patt to 4th marker,starting w p1, (m), k1, p1, k1, (m), *p1, k1* in patt to end ofround, ending w k1
R2: *p1, k1* in patt to 4th marker, m1,(m), k1, p1, k1, (m), m1, *p1, k1* in patt to end
Repeat R1-R2 for 6 rows total. (96 ststotal)
Knit around, except purl 1st, 7th,41st, and 47th sts. Purl around.

Body:
Put the 49 sts between the 3rd and last markers in scrap. Stitches will be removed from scrap one at a timeby a wrap and turn.
R1: (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1, m1,k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1,m1, k1, p1, (m), w&t
R2: (m), p9, (m), p35, (m), p9, (m),p1, w&t
R3: k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1,k1, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, k1, s1, k1, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, w&t
R4: p1, (m), p11, (m), p37, (m), p11,(m), p2, w&t
R5: k2, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1,m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, *k1,s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k2, w&t
R6: p2, (m), p13, (m), p39, (m), p13,(m), p3, w&t
R7: k1, s1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1,k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, s1, k1, w&t
R8: p3, (m), p15, (m), p41, (m), p15,(m), p4, w&t
R9: k1, s1, k2, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1,k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k2, s1, k1, w&t
R10: p4, (m), p17, (m), p43, (m), p17,(m), p5, w&t

--- Now change to m1 on the front partof the sweater,as well.
R11: k1, s1, k1, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1,k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m),p1, k1, m1, s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, s1, k1, s1, k1,w&t

--- One or more of subsequent odd rows ends with s1, k2tog (last st plus 1 st from scrap), w&t,
and one or more subsequent even rows ends with sl, p2tog (last st plus 1 st from scrap). w&t,
in order to get the same number of sts in front and in back.

Further: (added 8/1/06) For a gauge of 4 sts per inch with the garment 192 sts (48") around and the underarm seam 13 sts long, makeraglan increases until the back is 83 sts wide.
Also, at the point when the bottom of the v consists of only one unwrapped stitch, end with sl, k1, s1 (at the bottom of the v), placemarker, then start a new (RS) round by knitting around (except for the raglan seams). All work will be done in the round from then onwith new rounds starting at the marker (one stitch past the center front).

The sleeves: (added 8/20/06) (note: The last sleeve row/round was a s1k1 one.) Identify the 13(or whatever number used of) cast on stitches (I now use abackward loop cast on). Then starting with the middle stitch,knit 6 sts from the cast on, knit the last cast on st togetherwith the nearest sleeve st, knit to the last of the sleeve sts,knit that together w the nearest cast on stitch, and then knit 5sts to reach the middle again. Then to start the new round (which for my convenience I call sleeve round 1), look at the sleeve ststo see whether to start w a knit or slip stitch and then work the *k1, s1* or *s1, k1* pattern around. (There are an even number of sts on the sleeve.) For the second k2tog, skp (slip 1, knit 1,pass slipped st over). For the first k2tog, do the opposite(kbps? - knit 1, slip this st back to the left-hand needle, pass next st over the slipped-back st, slip the slipped-back st to the right hand needle). Because I like tapered sleeves, I decreased 2 sts every 10th round (a knit row) by k1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts of the round, ssk. (With this set of decreases, every round ending in 1, 5, and 9 was the same;every round ending in 3 and 7 was the same.) Then when the sleeve is long enough, end w a knit round. Then I did the same thing I did for the bottom of the sweater. First knit around with decreases to get to the correct number for the ribbing. Purl around . Knit around starting the first stitch with a jogless jog to keep the purl jogless. Knit around. Then do the ribbing. (edited 10/18/06 to use backwards loop cast on instead of provisional cast on -- since the chain st provisional cast on gives either one more or one fewer st when picked up)

Wyvern sock

My most recent sock is a toe-up Wyvern sock (http://marniemaclean.com/patterns/Wyvern/) with mix and match toe and heel. It has a closed toe from http://knottygnome.blogspot.com/2005/11/free-pattern-sporty and http://secure.elann.com/ShowFreePattern.asp?Id=5024 and a toe-up heel-flap heel from http://www.socknitters.com/toe-up/index.htm. It's in 100% acrylic Moda Dea yarn and knit with size 3 needles ....and more importantly, I finished off the yarn. By the way, Ididn't work ribbing on the bottom of the sock, but I did work ribbing on the back of the sock from the end of the heel upward. I really like the wider version of the toe-up heel-flap heel.