Wednesday, July 19, 2006

tweed-stitch v-neck

I've frogged my DHs languishing sweater to the neck ribbing and am now working it in tweed stitch. Here are the first few rows -- because I'm surprised at how well it's working out. Photo added 8/21/06 is of my DS modeling the sweater. (I'm planning on giving my DH the sweater for Christmas -- though the original sweater I had planned to have ready for his birthday a couple of years ago.)

Note: s1 is slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front.

CO 90 sts (= 7 + 33 + 7 + 43). Place markers after 7th, 40th, 47th, 67th, 71st, and 90th sts.

R1: *p1, k1* in patt to 4th marker,starting w p1, (m), k1, p1, k1, (m), *p1, k1* in patt to end ofround, ending w k1
R2: *p1, k1* in patt to 4th marker, m1,(m), k1, p1, k1, (m), m1, *p1, k1* in patt to end
Repeat R1-R2 for 6 rows total. (96 ststotal)
Knit around, except purl 1st, 7th,41st, and 47th sts. Purl around.

Put the 49 sts between the 3rd and last markers in scrap. Stitches will be removed from scrap one at a timeby a wrap and turn.
R1: (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1, m1,k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1,m1, k1, p1, (m), w&t
R2: (m), p9, (m), p35, (m), p9, (m),p1, w&t
R3: k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1,k1, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, k1, s1, k1, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, w&t
R4: p1, (m), p11, (m), p37, (m), p11,(m), p2, w&t
R5: k2, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1,m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, *k1,s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k2, w&t
R6: p2, (m), p13, (m), p39, (m), p13,(m), p3, w&t
R7: k1, s1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1,k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, s1, k1, w&t
R8: p3, (m), p15, (m), p41, (m), p15,(m), p4, w&t
R9: k1, s1, k2, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1,k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k2, s1, k1, w&t
R10: p4, (m), p17, (m), p43, (m), p17,(m), p5, w&t

--- Now change to m1 on the front partof the sweater,as well.
R11: k1, s1, k1, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1,k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m),p1, k1, m1, s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, s1, k1, s1, k1,w&t

--- One or more of subsequent odd rows ends with s1, k2tog (last st plus 1 st from scrap), w&t,
and one or more subsequent even rows ends with sl, p2tog (last st plus 1 st from scrap). w&t,
in order to get the same number of sts in front and in back.

Further: (added 8/1/06) For a gauge of 4 sts per inch with the garment 192 sts (48") around and the underarm seam 13 sts long, makeraglan increases until the back is 83 sts wide.
Also, at the point when the bottom of the v consists of only one unwrapped stitch, end with sl, k1, s1 (at the bottom of the v), placemarker, then start a new (RS) round by knitting around (except for the raglan seams). All work will be done in the round from then onwith new rounds starting at the marker (one stitch past the center front).

The sleeves: (added 8/20/06)
(note: The last sleeve row/round was a s1k1 one.) Identify the 13(or whatever number used of) cast on stitches (I now use abackward loop cast on). Then starting with the middle stitch,knit 6 sts from the cast on, knit the last cast on st togetherwith the nearest sleeve st, knit to the last of the sleeve sts,knit that together w the nearest cast on stitch, and then knit 5sts to reach the middle again. Then to start the new round (which for my convenience I call sleeve round 1), look at the sleeve ststo see whether to start w a knit or slip stitch and then work the *k1, s1* or *s1, k1* pattern around. (There are an even number of sts on the sleeve.) For the second k2tog, skp (slip 1, knit 1,pass slipped st over). For the first k2tog, do the opposite(kbps? - knit 1, slip this st back to the left-hand needle, pass next st over the slipped-back st, slip the slipped-back st to the right hand needle). Because I like tapered sleeves, I decreased 2 sts every 10th round (a knit row) by k1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts of the round, ssk. (With this set of decreases, every round ending in 1, 5, and 9 was the same;every round ending in 3 and 7 was the same.) Then when the sleeve is long enough, end w a knit round. Then I did the same thing I did for the bottom of the sweater. First knit around with decreases to get to the correct number for the ribbing. Purl around . Knit around starting the first stitch with a jogless jog to keep the purl jogless. Knit around. Then do the ribbing. (edited 10/18/06 to use backwards loop cast on instead of provisional cast on -- since the chain st provisional cast on gives either one more or one fewer st when picked up)

Monday, July 3, 2006

Wyvern sock

My most recent sock is a toe-up Wyvern sock ( with mix and match toe and heel. It has a closed toe from and and a toe-up heel-flap heel from It's in 100% acrylic Moda Dea yarn and knit with size 3 needles ....and more importantly, I finished off the yarn. By the way, Ididn't work ribbing on the bottom of the sock, but I did work ribbing on the back of the sock from the end of the heel upward. I really like the wider version of the toe-up heel-flap heel.