tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78388553191480834012024-03-13T03:59:52.337-07:00Carol's knitting pageideas and patternsCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.comBlogger57125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-32084127525583032162017-10-24T17:30:00.000-07:002017-11-06T11:03:25.601-08:00stretchy cast on for ribbed edgeAfter watching <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FASmKKNhiCU">Garnstudio's video</a>, I thought to myself that there must be a way to work the cast on while holding the yarn in the left hand. Here are written directions for doing so. The cast on is very stretchy and works for both 1x1 and 2x2 ribbing.<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Make slip knot on LHN. (The slip knot is not counted as a cast on stitch and will be slipped off needle later.) <br />
* With yib,
place RHN under LHN. Wrap yarn under (from left to right) and over LHN
and then under (from right to left) and over RHN. (Loops made on both needles.) Pull loop on RHN through. Yarn forward (under LHN).
With yif, slip st from RHN to LHN purlwise. Two sts cast on. Yarn back (under LHN).
Repeat from * until desired number of sts are cast on.</div>
<br />
<br />Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-52410946512458222802012-08-06T15:17:00.000-07:002012-08-08T13:32:26.153-07:00picking up stitches for the thumb<i>This is mainly for my benefit....</i><br />
<i>I've looked around for information on how to pick up stitches at the side of a thumb-hole opening and haven't found anything that works better than this:</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>This is for the simplest thumb-hole opening, an afterthought thumb.</i><br />
<br />
The first step is to pick up stitches from the top and bottom of the opening and then remove the scrap yarn.<br />
(There will be as many stitches on the bottom as were knitted with the scarp yarn. There will be one fewer stitch on top.)<br />
Attach yarn and knit the picked up stitches on the bottom of the thumb opening.<br />
Knit together 2 stitches at the side of the opening (or, in other words, knit the next stitch together with the one above it).<br />
With a second needle, knit the picked up stitches on the top.<br />
Knit together 2 stitches at the side of the opening.<br />
Then proceed to knit in the round.<br />
(You may want to work an ssk as the last st on each needle on the first round.)Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-72654441134446474822011-08-24T14:44:00.000-07:002011-08-24T14:44:09.395-07:00binder clipsjust a short post...<br />
I really like using binder clips for intarsia. For the project I'm currently working on, I have every other strand of yarn on yarn bobbins. The rest of the yarn is wound into balls and clipped onto the project with binder clips.<br />
Binder clips are a bit heavy, but the yarn doesn't get tangled. Yarn bobbins are lighter, but the yarn often does get tangled.Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-46716448012164113452011-03-19T12:58:00.000-07:002012-08-06T15:19:18.132-07:00Trek PotholderI really like the potholder I made for <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/groups/nerd-wars">NerdWars</a> (on Ravelry) this month. (I used Peaches & Creme and size 7 needles.) Ilana MacDonald's pattern can be found <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/star-trek-pot-holders">here</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/schoen1605/5531017124/" title="Starfleet Insignia by schoen1605, on Flickr"><img alt="Starfleet Insignia" height="180" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5138/5531017124_489942abc6_m.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
<br />
It's my first try at double knitting. It took me quite a few tries to get it looking the way I'd like. And, as a bonus, my gauge got more nearly even with each try. ;)<br />
<br />
I probably did the edges "incorrectly". But, at least, they're something I like.<br />
<br />
Here are my adventures:<br />
<br />
The first thing I tried for the cast on edge was casting both colors on at the same time. But, I didn't like the look and so ended up working a provisional cast on in red and then knitting yellow on one side and red on the other.<br />
<br />
For the side edge, I first tried working the edges just as I would any other stitch in the row. The edge looked sloppy. And, I wasn't sure how easy it would be to crochet the edges together when done. Then I tried slipping the first stitch of every row. That was a little better. Then I tried knitting the 2 yarns together at the end of a row and slipping the first stitch at the beginning of a row. That gave an edge that was thicker than the rest of the potholder. I finally ended up slipping the first 2 stitches of every row (1 st in each color) and then twisting the yarn so that the edges would hold together even before the crochet edging was added.<br />
<br />
Finally, for the top .... (since I was pretty sure I had broken most of the "rules" for double knitting anyway) .... I repositioned all the sts (2 at a time) and worked a sc in red through each pair (1 of each color).<br />
<br />
From there it was easy to single crochet around (working extra sc's in the corners).Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-49934134313845680792010-10-25T12:29:00.001-07:002011-01-06T16:38:45.112-08:00bunny mask<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB9cG37ALMYQY8-JNwAWuCx3HF6R8O32Yt1mnAy4A2fKDWsE7-HZ8tF_lm9ucEg2TIKn6iXoC6HGRxPqjerlTc71DUvr01iBbarfPKrQqzyxEjQu0oXe-Zw28XkBWPXKrRI8PYuEHyqLGV/s1600/IMG_4262.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB9cG37ALMYQY8-JNwAWuCx3HF6R8O32Yt1mnAy4A2fKDWsE7-HZ8tF_lm9ucEg2TIKn6iXoC6HGRxPqjerlTc71DUvr01iBbarfPKrQqzyxEjQu0oXe-Zw28XkBWPXKrRI8PYuEHyqLGV/s320/IMG_4262.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5532068174893933170" border="0" /></a>My DS2 completed his first knitting project -- a bunny mask -- a couple of weeks ago. I'm really proud of how well he did.<br /><br />He's going to wear the mask during a charity online video-game-playing marathon just after the first of next year. As I understand it, for the game he's going to be playing, the main character pretends to be a rabbit for a while. He's going to don the mask for that section of the game.<br /><br />edited to add link: <a href="http://speeddemosarchive.com/">Speed Demos Charity Marathon</a>, January 6 - 11, 2011<br /><br />The hat is a combination of two different patterns: a <a href="http://therunningyarn.wordpress.com/2008/04/03/panda-ski-mask-free-pattern/">panda ski mask</a> pattern for the main part of the hat -- with changes to the nose and mouth to make it more bunny like -- and a <a href="http://tanglewashere.com/patterns/bunny-ears/">bunny ears</a> pattern for the ears. (I scouted the patterns for him.)<br /><br />I didn't tell him how difficult the pattern was until he was finished. ;)Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-86139900404789346642010-08-10T10:06:00.001-07:002010-08-10T11:15:06.260-07:00Diamond Spiral Socks<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXSzFyZfmzxqiFIRuJSLyyX9hJ6kQ2ICMz9hVU3KF4amGqurNMiNdkG5PtOMh78XXDi1LrwFd2hEZncWEEWetMcV-9L80Jo7fSj1tjmJSbSRa4GR9ZXEWRCbwxeEXU9Srs9mYIN6swJDfD/s1600/knit+169.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 235px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXSzFyZfmzxqiFIRuJSLyyX9hJ6kQ2ICMz9hVU3KF4amGqurNMiNdkG5PtOMh78XXDi1LrwFd2hEZncWEEWetMcV-9L80Jo7fSj1tjmJSbSRa4GR9ZXEWRCbwxeEXU9Srs9mYIN6swJDfD/s320/knit+169.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5503829972344016306" border="0" /></a>The August 2010 voluntary challenge in <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/groups/sock-knitters-anonymous">Ravelry's Sock Knitters Anonymous</a> group is to finish the second sock of a pair. I had knitted one of each of the socks at the right. Both are based on the Diamond Spiral pattern from Stanfield and Griffiths’s <em>Encyclopedia of Knitting</em>. But, I couldn't figure out which of the two uses of the pattern I liked better. Then, it finally dawned on me that I could make both.<br /><br />While reading another thread in the same Ravelry group, I came across a new (to me) heel, the yo-yo (German <span style="font-style: italic;">Jo-Jo</span> heel). There is a nice description of the heel at <a href="http://tessknits.com/113/the-double-stitch-short-row-heel-aka-the-yo-yo-or-jo-jo-heel">tessknits.com</a> and also with <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/farnkrautsocken">Silke Pieper's Farnkrautsocken</a>. I've grown to love the heel!<br /><br />So, I frogged half of the sock with the zig-zag front and reworked it with a yo-yo heel. The pattern is now in Ravelry under the name <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/twin-diamond-spiral-socks">Twin Diamond Spiral Socks</a>.<br /><br />Now, another thing about me is that I often run out of yarn. This was the case here. I had only 2 skeins of Stroll Inca Gold Tweed -- which just wouldn't make it for 4 socks -- even with my narrow feet.<br /><br />So, the cuffs for both socks are now Stroll Navy Tweed (which I had less than a skein left of). I still didn't have enough Inca Gold to work 2 more socks. So, the toe for the second pair of socks is also Stroll Navy Tweed. This pattern is in Ravelry under the name <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/diamond-twin-spiral-socks">Diamond Twin Spiral Socks</a>. Its cuff has 2 rows of eyelets instead of just the 1. To keep the cuff from flaring out, there are decreases in the middle of the cuff.<br /><br />The pdfs can be downloaded directly from these links:<br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dls/carol-schoenfelder-designs/42187?filename=Diamond_Twin_Spiral_Socks.pdf">Diamond Twin Spiral Socks</a><br />and<br /><a href="http://www.ravelry.com/dls/carol-schoenfelder-designs/41948?filename=Twin_Diamond_Spiral.pdf">Twin Diamond Spiral Socks</a>.Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-64782783684264756892009-11-20T11:28:00.000-08:002009-11-20T11:38:55.357-08:00Toby's Sweater<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTrCfVxnw-KX3NXA6hGwT9kasCHn81segERZbYjaETMEYxdCdJwllz9EA-5i829RWJ0NYxmDfIdG6lJgXZgnP-ACUU-aFjQKO44eEosxD2a8hUR7kDiO3UiWIthX3RFuZnEs5gmiJy-N2/s1600/knit+2009+145.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTrCfVxnw-KX3NXA6hGwT9kasCHn81segERZbYjaETMEYxdCdJwllz9EA-5i829RWJ0NYxmDfIdG6lJgXZgnP-ACUU-aFjQKO44eEosxD2a8hUR7kDiO3UiWIthX3RFuZnEs5gmiJy-N2/s320/knit+2009+145.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406270184009949058" border="0" /></a>This sweater is based on <a href="http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/kfancyf-dogSweater.html">Lion Brands' Turtleneck Dog Sweater</a>. It's been changed to fit different measurements and a different choice in yarn – and also to eliminate seaming. I hope it fits. The dog lives in another time zone. <br /><br />NOTES:<br />I chose a 17 st cast on at the end of the BACK section since 17 is about a fourth of 70. I made the leg opening increases and decreases a few sts from the edge but think they'll look better as written below. I made the increases for the BACK 3 sts in from the sides.<br /><br />SIZE:<br />girth: 21"<br />neck: 11"<br />length: 16"<br /><br />MATERIALS:<br />1 skein Vanna's Choice Colonial Blue (MC) <br />½ skein Vanna's Choice Mustard (CC)<br />size 9 [5.5 mm] knitting needles<br />crochet hook <br /><br />GAUGE:<br />16 sts + 32 rows = 4 inches [10cm] in garter st<br />Garter st pattern: When knitting back and forth, knit every row. When knitting in the round, knit one round then purl the next round. Repeat.<br /><br />BACK:<br />With MC, cast on 29 sts. Work in garter st, increasing 1 st near beginning and end of every RS (knit) row 4 times (to 35 sts), then every other RS row 9 times (to 53 sts). Knit 3 more rows.<br /><br />Change to CC and knit across 53 sts (on RS). Mark start of round. Cast on 17 sts. Place a second marker. Join to start working in the round. Purl 53 to reach end of round. Work in garter stitch to 6 ridges of CC (10 more rounds).<br /><br />LEG OPENINGS:<br />(The chest is worked in CC, the back and sides in MC.)<br />Row 1: In CC, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog. In MC, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog. Turn.<br />Row 2: In MC, knit to marker. In CC, knit to marker. Turn.<br />Repeat Rows 1 – 2 three more times.<br />Row 9: In CC, knit to marker (9 sts). In MC, knit to marker (45 sts). Turn.<br />Row 10: In MC, knit to marker. In CC, knit to marker. Turn.<br />Repeat Rows 9 – 10 once more.<br />Row 13: In CC, k1, make 1, k to 1 st before marker, make 1, k1. In MC, k1, make 1, k to 1 st before marker, make 1, k1. Turn.<br />Row 14: In MC, knit to marker. In CC, knit to marker. Turn.<br />Repeat Rows 13 – 14 three more times (to 17 sts in CC and 53 sts in MC).<br />Break MC to begin knitting with CC only (in the round).<br /><br />FRONT:<br />With CC, work in garter st in the round, to 6 ridges of CC (12 rounds), starting with a knit round. Decrease on every knit round by knitting to first marker (17 sts), k3, ssk, k to 5 sts before end-of-round marker, k2tog, k3. End on a purl round.<br /><br />COLLAR:<br />With MC, knit around. <br />Set-up round: (k1, p1) 9 times, (k1, p2tog) 4 times, (k1, p1) 13 times, (k1, p2tog) 4 times, k1, p1. (50 sts). <br />Work in (k1, p1) rib for 4". Bind off in pattern. Fold collar back.<br /><br />FINISHING<br />Single crochet around each leg opening in MC. Weave in all ends.Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-57279944724850764852009-10-15T12:13:00.001-07:002009-11-20T11:28:32.201-08:00Serenity<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF_7_raFjCfnxFLkPmU3cN9Px-ma3-Dx5QDImWSmG5b4e-tPU9SWYxdVZXKCEhTjXeElfzJWQAJP4PU8zhhP3aD1Beq6oaMBDOgpWk-TvIAwkQcuNhxP0JP9JHJJ2rcJsRMYQhkz-KuwzR/s1600-h/Serenity+1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 171px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF_7_raFjCfnxFLkPmU3cN9Px-ma3-Dx5QDImWSmG5b4e-tPU9SWYxdVZXKCEhTjXeElfzJWQAJP4PU8zhhP3aD1Beq6oaMBDOgpWk-TvIAwkQcuNhxP0JP9JHJJ2rcJsRMYQhkz-KuwzR/s320/Serenity+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392907944776972386" border="0" /></a>Recently, I came across a pattern for <a href="http://www.yarmando.com/washsweater.html">Wash's Sweater</a>, as seen on the tv series Firefly.<br /><br />I liked the cables but wanted the Serenity cable row repeat to be shorter (since I didn't want a sweater as long as the original would produce).<br /><br />After quite a bit of thought, I started with a lattice cable like the one on the right (using the Open Office equivalent to Excel).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz5ntaUt6DJgfVXRkRIBv0899rckDNAeUhosjHSFW83sIO-D8ZDTtJOgDnTibM-w3vGdJqk_YlQZBaenVSCgYSq-u_ahJfa_IoV09QiIQNbmnoskey3BKIQXvDi0F7d4QfYFEKcyHDVIAm/s1600-h/Serenity+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 171px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz5ntaUt6DJgfVXRkRIBv0899rckDNAeUhosjHSFW83sIO-D8ZDTtJOgDnTibM-w3vGdJqk_YlQZBaenVSCgYSq-u_ahJfa_IoV09QiIQNbmnoskey3BKIQXvDi0F7d4QfYFEKcyHDVIAm/s320/Serenity+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392907936386704978" border="0" /></a>Then I took out sections of cabling to get the heart-shaped sections in the second chart. This is the chart I'm going to use for the sweater.<br /><br />In both charts, the 6-space-wide sections represent 6-st-wide cables -- either knit 3 over purl 3, knit 3 over knit 3, purl 3 under knit 3, or knit 3 under knit 3. The 4-space-wide sections beginning and ending with a slash (or backslash) are 4-st-wide cables -- either knit 3 over a purl 1 or purl 1 under knit 3.<br /><br />Edited (a few days later): <span style="font-style: italic;">The sweater looks better with the middle six knit sts of Rows 17, 18, and 49 of the second chart replaced by purl sts.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-yoUF0yMBKCiWykRzaTbclaqQzmFwNv_Qzc1GdTDqRMqM0BZmVpRi3U71r9EpZx2-Ir3u6Et5_xc9isU2TB9P0h_S2L3cNp01JiepShcyyqqR3MylpySopvHyNMWui1QtU5sqWcIEPrH/s1600/Serenity+3.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 289px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-yoUF0yMBKCiWykRzaTbclaqQzmFwNv_Qzc1GdTDqRMqM0BZmVpRi3U71r9EpZx2-Ir3u6Et5_xc9isU2TB9P0h_S2L3cNp01JiepShcyyqqR3MylpySopvHyNMWui1QtU5sqWcIEPrH/s320/Serenity+3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406267307878360674" border="0" /></a>Finally, here is a chart for the sleeves. As before, the slashes indicate cables. I've shown only the center top of the sleeve plus one side of the sleeve -- and only as far as when the sleeve sts are to be put on a holder for use when finishing the sleeve. The circles show where increases are made. (They're more like lifted increases than yo's. They are finished in the next row by being worked twisted.) <span style="font-style: italic;">And, as before, the middle six knit sts of Rows 17, 18, and 49 of the chart look better when replaced by purl sts.<br /></span>Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-6699315851722425812009-08-25T07:08:00.000-07:002009-08-25T07:31:09.260-07:00WS colorwork<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLpYc2BPLPIXh__NLiU3ZQCvCL82JDZKhwP9idA7vfyAtFUBPEZY1xpd_QsDDKUwRa85u94tNMtixuezlY-OsewbWu3Bmjg9J6qaURfiAKvh6v7ipMMuWDUbNrE8C6wwM2JCEKydbK9-dP/s1600-h/IMG_3481.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLpYc2BPLPIXh__NLiU3ZQCvCL82JDZKhwP9idA7vfyAtFUBPEZY1xpd_QsDDKUwRa85u94tNMtixuezlY-OsewbWu3Bmjg9J6qaURfiAKvh6v7ipMMuWDUbNrE8C6wwM2JCEKydbK9-dP/s320/IMG_3481.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373903514786902738" border="0" /></a>Recently, I decided to work a Fleegle heel in colorwork. Information on WS colorwork is most likely available on the web already. And there are probably much better ways to get the same result. But, here is my take (mostly for my own reference).<br /><br />My main problem was seeing the stitch that I was going to purl into (possibly since I knit Continental style). For this colorwork, I had blue at the top, brown in the middle, and green for the bottom thread. Keeping an order like this helps keep the yarn from twisting. The picture shows preparation for purling in green with blue and brown off to the right side.<br /><br />When preparing to knit in brown, I left green to the left and blue to the right. For blue, both green and brown were left to the left.<br /><br />As a side note, when working on the RS, I kept the same order, with blue in my right hand, brown over the index finger on my left hand, and green over another finger on my left. This was my low tech way of keeping the yarn from twisting.<br /><br />A final note (mostly to myself): After turning (for the short-row part of the heel), before making the first st in a row (after the slip stitch), wrap the other 2 yarns under the yarn to be used in that st. When I didn't do that, I had holes. For the pair of socks I made with this pattern, I left one heel with holes and one without to help me remember this.Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-78786485798475031672009-08-14T09:40:00.001-07:002009-08-14T09:41:58.918-07:00Mobius band cast on<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieVrHyLxiM8GIlBJ92jmTEgV_hRBiBbCcNzO-9TpUXgZD15C17ZXOxgjLe92Ywq2m-_1kfy-JyRJREKv1BLvxFb7J7gZFPBUNKHjjuD5mihcFPIiXodwun8HioBpZi7v4B8uWaa90jhku7/s1600-h/2009+015.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieVrHyLxiM8GIlBJ92jmTEgV_hRBiBbCcNzO-9TpUXgZD15C17ZXOxgjLe92Ywq2m-_1kfy-JyRJREKv1BLvxFb7J7gZFPBUNKHjjuD5mihcFPIiXodwun8HioBpZi7v4B8uWaa90jhku7/s320/2009+015.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369828493863215602" border="0" /></a>My DS2 found a link for knitting a <a href="http://www.toroidalsnark.net/mkmb.html">Mobius band </a>and asked me to take a look at it. He was planning on knitting it, but it turned out a little too difficult for a beginning knitter.<br /><br />As I was reading the directions (Method 1), I thought to myself that the band could be worked even more easily with interchangeable circs.<br /><br />Cast on the desired number of sts using a Turkish cast on (over 2 circs). (In the pic, I wrapped the yarn around the circs 126 times, for the pattern I was going to make.) Then knit back (or k1p1 back) over those stitches (for the example, 126 sts). These stitches form the "soul" or center of the band. (I placed markers every 18th st because the pattern I was going to use has a repeat of 18 sts.)<br /><br />Then working with the part of the band away from the loose end, take off the needle tip and the cap. Place the needle tip where the cap was and the cap where the needle tip was. The pic shows the band after the exchange. Lay the work out so nothing is twisted (as in the pic).<br /><br />Mark the beginning of the round and begin knitting whatever pattern you've chosen for the band. There will naturally be a single twist in the work. Work in pattern until you've knitted all the sts off the circ (126 sts). All the sts (all 252 of them) are now on the same circ.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR1u0-EkU6_HoeO0FZHkosgApG2S7oqsORX4vluy6skVuSrkMRAdRwPJn2pqRpuw0J8JzwErYXl0lUMMhVs7o3Lb8O5DsnmC6cy-kVF7lWts_tmNKtKacUXfm0K0jT6LvDGAM82inkDJPR/s1600-h/knit+2009+005.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR1u0-EkU6_HoeO0FZHkosgApG2S7oqsORX4vluy6skVuSrkMRAdRwPJn2pqRpuw0J8JzwErYXl0lUMMhVs7o3Lb8O5DsnmC6cy-kVF7lWts_tmNKtKacUXfm0K0jT6LvDGAM82inkDJPR/s320/knit+2009+005.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369856176088199538" border="0" /></a>Replace the cap on the circ that has all the sts on it with a needle tip. Then finish the round (126 more sts for a total of 252, for the example). Continue to knit in pattern. The second pic is of a finished Mobius band, <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/may-flowers-mobius">May Flowers Mobius</a>.<br /><br />A picture of the first Mobius band I knitted is <a href="http://knit1605.blogspot.com/2009/02/destashing.html">here</a>. It's the last pic in the post. It was knit with worsted weight cotton yarn.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Note:</span> The first pic here shows 2 circs of equal length. It works out better to have the circ on which the "soul" is knitted to be a bit longer since it will eventually be the only circ in use and have to be long enough for twice the "length" of the band.Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-6640123297002345312009-03-05T06:56:00.000-08:002009-10-21T11:26:26.189-07:00Twists, etcRecently, I was reading a German sock pattern and saw directions for making left and right twists (2 stitch cables). I immediately thought: This is so obvious. Why haven't I seen anything like this before?<br /><br />My German isn't that good. This is what I think I read:<br /><span style="font-style: italic;">(Well, after the translation came out, I discovered that I had misread </span><span style="font-style: italic;">second</span><span style="font-style: italic;"> for two , and the directions are for the usual pinch method of cabling without a cable needle. But, the following directions do work.)</span><br /><br />For a <span style="font-weight: bold;">right twist</span>: Put the RHN (right hand needle) into the first 2 stitches of the LHN (left hand needle) as if working a k2tog. Slip the 2 sts off the LHN but do not knit them. Slip them back onto the LHN purlwise. The sts are twisted with the st nearest the tip of the LHN lying over the next st. Knit the first st tbl (through the back loop). Knit (or purl) the next st tbl. (Purl the second stitch if you want a right twist with purl back. Otherwise knit it.)<br /><br />For a <span style="font-weight: bold;">left twist</span>: Just as the right twist starts out as if one were making a k2tog, the left twist starts out as if one were making a ssk -- or more accurately a ssp. Reposition the first 2 sts on the LHN needle as if working a ssk or ssp. (In other words, slip the 2 sts to the RHN individually knitwise. Then slip them back to the LHN purlwise.) Slip the RHN into the back of the 2 sts on the LHN as if working a ssp. Slip them off the LHN but do not purl them. Slip them back onto the LHN purlwise. Knit (or purl) the first st. (Purl the first stitch if you want a right twist with purl back. Otherwise knit it.) Knit the second st.<br /><br />For a left twist (with fewer steps): Slip the first 2 sts on the LHN individually to the RHN. With the points of both needle facing the same direction and the LHN in front of the RHN, place the LHN into the 2 sts and slip them off the RHN. Knit (or purl) the first st. Knit the second st.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Now to decreases and increases....</span><br />After reading about making centered double decreases instead of paired single decreases for shaping sleeves, etc. in Knitting Daily, I've found that I like them a lot. I use Fleegle's method of making a <span style="font-weight: bold;">centered double decrease</span>. But, instead of working the stitch in one step as she does, I first slip the 1st 2 sts on the LHN to the RHN together knitwise. Then slip the next st on the LHN to the RHN knitwise. Finally, knit the 3 sts together through the back loop. This leaves a ridge in the center (equivalent to <span style="font-weight: bold;">s2kp</span> or <span style="font-weight: bold;">cdd</span>). On the other hand for a centered double decrease that looks like a <span style="font-weight: bold;">sk2p</span>, slip 1 st knitwise from the LHN to the RHN. Then slip the next 2 sts together from the LHN to the RHN knitwise. Finally, knit the 3 sts together through the back loop. (These have the added advantage, at least for me, of being easier to frog than the "pass st over" methods.)<br /><br />I wasn't able to find anything on <span style="font-weight: bold;">centered p3tog</span>'s. So, here's how I ended up making some in order to have the stitch look like a centered k3tog from the wrong side:<br />Leave the yarn in front. Turn the knitting over so that the yarn is now in back. What was the RHN is now the LHN and vice versa. Slip the 1st 2 sts on the LHN to the RHN together knitwise. Then slip them back to the LHN purlwise before finally knitting 3 sts together through the back loop. Slip this st back to the LHN knitwise. Turn the work over. The stitch is complete.<br /><br />Finally, to get a <span style="font-weight: bold;">centered double increase</span> to match the centered double decrease (for shaping). In the same stitch, p1, yo, p1.<br /><br />Here's a link for an interesting and, at least for heavier weight yarns, better, way to make a <a href="http://www.girlfromauntie.com/stitch/inc2/">double increase</a>. And since sometimes links disappear, here is a brief summary: k1tbl, k1 in same st. Place vertical bar of st just knit onto LHN. k1. You get a nice single increase by just working the first part of the stitch (k1tbl, k1 in same st).Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-71445716698013851942009-02-04T06:45:00.000-08:002009-02-27T11:09:34.033-08:00Peeriessome terminology before I forget it.....<br /><br />quoting Elizabeth Lovick (from a Yahoo! EZasPi post):<br />"Peerie is the Shetland word for peedie. (And little is the English word for peedie!!) The peeries are the patterns of 1 to 4 or 5 rows deep.<br />The boarders [borders] are the next size up - from about 7 to about 11 rows deep. After that come the OXOs and stars...."<br /><br />from the <span style="font-style: italic;">Encyclopedia of Knitting</span> by Stanfield and Griffiths:<br />"Little two and three row patterns [peeries] ... are often used as a contrast between more complex bands of motifs."<br />"Some ... borders are built up out of peerie patterns, while others stand alone. ... (F)or a more authentic color scheme, change the background for each band of pattern."<br /><br />Also, I think I have figured out why we started with a stockinette edge rather than a ribbed one. -- A curled stockinette edge would be a lot warmer.<br /><br />about colors, from Elizabeth Lovick (from a Yahoo! EZasPi post):<br />"The earliest FIs done on FI are bright blue, bright red<br />bright yellow with dark brown and very pale fawn, grey or white...."Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-38482959808279483112009-01-05T07:56:00.000-08:002009-01-05T08:19:10.734-08:00Corrugated Rib<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ganGfUuCtxgtpiY4_QM-C8XXU46r41380Eks0L6dTz7dS3IVTWgHDGeqe-jyPIj3-EvsH7XEpDNuW85zErZLiTOMAH_f_lAkknq-NFhEYHjbDo7OHE5Su7i-Arm53E1XHM4lMzmJT85I/s1600-h/Nov08hat+009.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ganGfUuCtxgtpiY4_QM-C8XXU46r41380Eks0L6dTz7dS3IVTWgHDGeqe-jyPIj3-EvsH7XEpDNuW85zErZLiTOMAH_f_lAkknq-NFhEYHjbDo7OHE5Su7i-Arm53E1XHM4lMzmJT85I/s200/Nov08hat+009.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287841031768539010" border="0" /></a>Recently, I test knit a <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/corrugated-2">corrugated rib hat</a> for Amy. Corrugated ribbing is ribbing with the purl sts in one color and the knit sts in another.<br /><br />Since I'd never done any corrugating ribbing before, I searched the web for info. Here are my adventures in making the hat:<br /><br />First comes the supposed problem with curling and with strands peeking out from the edge. After a few attempts, I ended up with a knitted cast on (though a single cast on would work as well, and also, I suppose, a cable one). <br /><br />Then, more importantly (to prevent curling), I did one round in k1p1 ribbing with the same color -- dark gray.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDlTBGy7R5vIhc2HE0amm0IUQD4cRqnagCIm8XVLtFiINgCKnFPkd9yQ91YB9TbjLFnV5Fq5cXtS4dXUrb5FRe8HR7HJ-q76JmduTvW84IOl-1N9KLkxtKOQS1EfhZ6RyIkx4NIuxMn6bu/s1600-h/Nov08hat+002.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDlTBGy7R5vIhc2HE0amm0IUQD4cRqnagCIm8XVLtFiINgCKnFPkd9yQ91YB9TbjLFnV5Fq5cXtS4dXUrb5FRe8HR7HJ-q76JmduTvW84IOl-1N9KLkxtKOQS1EfhZ6RyIkx4NIuxMn6bu/s200/Nov08hat+002.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287841033470370962" border="0" /></a>After this round, I added the second color. I tried having the purl color in my right hand -- but found it very difficult for me to purl English style. (I generally knit Continental style.) So, I ended up with the purl color (white) in my left hand and the knit color (dark gray) in my right hand. It worked out well -- and was surprisingly relatively fast and easy. The second picture shows both the right and wrong sides of the hat.<br /><br />I used Patons Classic Wool Merino and size 7 needles. There is no problem whatsoever with curling and my DD has a nice warm stylish hat.Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-60111413157171324392008-12-23T08:02:00.000-08:002008-12-23T11:15:06.115-08:00Picking up sts from a cast-on edge<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1-70vt72WMKBZ57dRP7vaV6C9KcpOn5ZhxQJCkI5eUrlziiDmf_czTik48QmScKHALJGp0fJXTC3YopbvSZkKqyXj6Hv4ji569AYdXXI5drQrJEm7jSsCZfNoHzCoEEat2AfxkyeK9nYX/s1600-h/Dec08cardi+023.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1-70vt72WMKBZ57dRP7vaV6C9KcpOn5ZhxQJCkI5eUrlziiDmf_czTik48QmScKHALJGp0fJXTC3YopbvSZkKqyXj6Hv4ji569AYdXXI5drQrJEm7jSsCZfNoHzCoEEat2AfxkyeK9nYX/s200/Dec08cardi+023.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283020415935912770" border="0" /></a>Here's an alternative way of picking up stitches from a cast-on edge. The main advantage to this technique is that it can be done in pattern -- in this case, a "k4, p3" pattern.<br /><br />The easiest cast-on edge to pick up from, using this technique, is a single (or backwards loop) cast on. The single cast on has less bulk as well. (The long-tail cast on would work as well since it looks exactly like a single cast on followed by a row of knitting.)<br /><br />I'll be illustrating the technique for the bottom of an armhole for a raglan worked from the top down. The first picture shows the bottom of the armhole half done. The other half will be picked up after knitting around the rest of the armhole -- so that rounds will begin and end at the middle of the underarm.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7za_0fWj8m4vzODyUotd8dHasobdBr5DwcyK1z3gK1TLF7Fu5yHtuxIZrgN_k8XZXdVIG-ScuqqQhtM8oTW9mbPTDJOCiEx2uofeoGQUJLRmowPgmJz78tUD4qtHFiivqqMaAvue7vZb/s1600-h/Dec08cardi+013.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7za_0fWj8m4vzODyUotd8dHasobdBr5DwcyK1z3gK1TLF7Fu5yHtuxIZrgN_k8XZXdVIG-ScuqqQhtM8oTW9mbPTDJOCiEx2uofeoGQUJLRmowPgmJz78tUD4qtHFiivqqMaAvue7vZb/s200/Dec08cardi+013.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283020392551035490" border="0" /></a>The first step is to identify the 2 loops of yarn over the first stitch to be picked up -- in this case, a knit stitch.<br /><br />One of these loops starts out as the right-hand-side of the stitch and then travels left over the stitch. The other starts out as the left-hand-side of the stitch and then travels to the right.<br /><br />The second picture shows a crochet hook ready to pull yarn through the top of a knit stitch.<br /><br />Once the loop is pulled through, place the yarn over the waiting needle so that the free end of the yarn (as opposed to the loose end) lies behind the needle. The part of the yarn nearest the loose end lies in front of the needle.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFzvn4OUuamhRzDu9r-Vnj4ieNu_0oSoCM0Ubow2uj7DjiM4OG6bgBi_q3JtxUnJlTs2GGI-mbBswUMXrKU6OyYUY9kiqropY_kzAFIk3NXX16k942mpdW1VvsVYrn5XWt6f7gQucvEubf/s1600-h/Dec08cardi+014.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFzvn4OUuamhRzDu9r-Vnj4ieNu_0oSoCM0Ubow2uj7DjiM4OG6bgBi_q3JtxUnJlTs2GGI-mbBswUMXrKU6OyYUY9kiqropY_kzAFIk3NXX16k942mpdW1VvsVYrn5XWt6f7gQucvEubf/s200/Dec08cardi+014.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283020401348551666" border="0" /></a>The next stitch to be picked up is also a knit stitch. The 3rd picture shows the progress after 2 knit stitches have been picked up.<br /><br />The next stitch to be picked up is a purl stitch.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4B4vR906wDFAqCZIM1FMLikzYhHymeCLtZFrVVyv2LybCmer4dHdE9y5Xz51VP5Cp-wMv717GwxDtDaSxmwYLVuzLt9YLmjOiKYsxBhB0cvHos4LPdsBnPT5n3ibFm3PlOyNoGlflop9v/s1600-h/Dec08cardi+015.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4B4vR906wDFAqCZIM1FMLikzYhHymeCLtZFrVVyv2LybCmer4dHdE9y5Xz51VP5Cp-wMv717GwxDtDaSxmwYLVuzLt9YLmjOiKYsxBhB0cvHos4LPdsBnPT5n3ibFm3PlOyNoGlflop9v/s200/Dec08cardi+015.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283020406081924930" border="0" /></a>For purl stitches, the technique is a bit different.<br /><br />Bring the yarn to the front of the work. Draw the yarn from front to back through the 2 loops at the top of the stitch. (The loops can be seen more easily from the back of the work.)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdUE1ei-Cg-A-tNAHANVwSIL0zusMJg6uFcIeM0LPS4dz3c3oNCYDlqqMD5jgu0akYn5-aynqozi8a4B-9_qThAjMe8rDLD0pKpd6kHS_9G4jp2n-jsW0Qu5bk_jLP7-oTsNdDQMXSOqE5/s1600-h/Dec08cardi+016.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdUE1ei-Cg-A-tNAHANVwSIL0zusMJg6uFcIeM0LPS4dz3c3oNCYDlqqMD5jgu0akYn5-aynqozi8a4B-9_qThAjMe8rDLD0pKpd6kHS_9G4jp2n-jsW0Qu5bk_jLP7-oTsNdDQMXSOqE5/s200/Dec08cardi+016.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283020408192524738" border="0" /></a>The last picture shows the progress after 3 sts have been picked up. The next 2 sts to be picked up are also purl sts. So, the yarn should remain in front while picking up the stitches.<br /><br />The last 2 sts to be picked up before working the sides and top of the armhole are knit stitches. The yarn should be moved to the back before picking up these stitches.<br /><br />For the corner of the armhole, I haven't made up my mind whether or not to pick up one more stitch before knitting sts off the cable. Sometimes I pick up one more stitch from the same row; sometimes I don't.<br /><br />Whichever, ..... I like to knit together the last picked up stitch with the nearest stitch on the cable (and also the first stitch to be picked up on the opposite side of the armhole with the nearest stitch on the cable).<br /><br />To start working off the cable, of course, remove the cap on the cable and replace it with a needle (the same size or a smaller size than the one used to pick up sts). Slip the nearest stitch from the cable onto the needle used to pick up stitches. Then pass the second st on the needle (the last one picked up) over -- (or else, ssk). Work around, in pattern -- except, slip the last stitch on the cable onto the working needle. Pick up 1 st from the unworked side of the armhole. Place these 2 sts on a spare needle, pass stitch over, return the remaining st to the working needle (or else, k2tog)-- a mirror image of what was done on the opposite side of the armhole. Pick up the rest of the stitches at the bottom of the armhole, and begin working in the round.Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-61389944971665000342008-11-06T08:53:00.000-08:002010-01-15T15:41:58.786-08:00Bamboo waves sock<span style="font-family:arial;">This sock is worked from the toe up. It uses a variation of the September 2008 stitch pattern by Gail Dennis aka </span><a style="font-family: arial;" href="http://sockamaniac.blogspot.com/">Sockamaniac </a><span style="font-family:arial;"> and has a </span><a style="font-family: arial;" href="http://rhitsqueaky.blogspot.com/2006/08/notes-on-widdershins-heel.html">Widdershins heel</a><span style="font-family:arial;">.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">edited: Whenever, I reknit something, I can't help but change it a little. A new version of the pattern is available for free on </span><a style="font-style: italic;" href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bamboo-waves">Ravelry</a><span style="font-style: italic;">. It is now sized in multiple sizes, has a different way of making the leg increases, and has an eyelet cuff. Here is a pic (in Knit Picks Stroll yarn):</span><br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/schoen1605/4275240138/" title="Bamboo Waves Socks by schoen1605, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4275240138_83836b079b_m.jpg" alt="Bamboo Waves Socks" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />The original (shown below) is knit from yarn courtesy of a lady from the knitting group I belong to and owner of </span><a style="font-family: arial;" href="http://mysmallwonders.etsy.com/">My Small Wonders</a><span style="font-family:arial;"> (which is where the yarn in the pic comes from). She wanted to see what her hand-painted yarn would look like knitted up into sock. The yarn was a pleasure to work with. Here's the pattern that resulted:</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >Materials:</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">1 skein (100g) sock yarn</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">two size 1 circular needles</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Gauge: </span>8 sts and 12 rows per inch (Row gauge is not important.)</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >Pattern (5 sts by 12 rows):</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">All even rows: Knit across</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Rows 1, 3, 5: yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2tog</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Rows 7, 9, 11: ssk, k2tog, yo, k1, yo</span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >Reverse Pattern </span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >(5 sts by 12 rows)</span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >:</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">All even rows: Knit across</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Rows 1, 3, 5: ssk, k2tog, yo, k1, yo</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Rows 7, 9, 11: yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2tog</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:georgia;" >The pattern is abbreviated "patt". The reverse pattern is abbreviated "rev patt".</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >Toe: </span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Cast on 7 st on each needle using </span><a style="font-family: georgia;" href="http://fluffyknitterdeb.blogspot.com/2005/10/knitting-made-easier-turkish-cast-on.html">Turkish cast on</a><span style="font-family:georgia;">.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Knit around.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Increase every round to 13 sts per needle.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Increase every other round to 31 sts per needle.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Knit even to about a 3" length (about 14 rounds)</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >Foot:</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">On needle 1: k2, patt, k2, patt, k3, rev patt, k2, rev patt, k2 (31 sts). On needle 2: k across.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Continue until the length is about 2 1/2 " (30 rounds) shy of the total desired foot length. For where the 30 rounds comes from, look at </span><a style="font-family: georgia;" href="http://knit1605.blogspot.com/2008/10/widdershins-heel.html">my post on the Widdershins heel</a><span style="font-family:georgia;">.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTdYytPJETMc_kkA6xDGlKhbysZ3aKCfrLuHg0syXeZRSjWCQoESB4QHke6WqEo4GWhum5XSYObyRum6nrtdXqQCRhVqRkWSy0C3Z_ZL4i6Ivvrb7tXHNfKrIKTrodeGz6Dq2U0Acfi_5R/s1600-h/Oct08Sock+013.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTdYytPJETMc_kkA6xDGlKhbysZ3aKCfrLuHg0syXeZRSjWCQoESB4QHke6WqEo4GWhum5XSYObyRum6nrtdXqQCRhVqRkWSy0C3Z_ZL4i6Ivvrb7tXHNfKrIKTrodeGz6Dq2U0Acfi_5R/s320/Oct08Sock+013.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265601884674180882" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >Gusset:</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Make gusset increases every other row to 53 sts on Needle 2. Meanwhile, keep following the pattern on Needle 1. The last pattern row on Needle 1, before turning the heel, should be an even row. Do not knit across on Needle 2. Instead .....</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >Turn heel:</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Place markers 15 sts in from either side of Needle 2, leaving 23 sts between markers. The stitches between markers are the heel sts. The sts outside the markers are the gusset sts. Then, working only on the heel sts:</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Row 1: k to 4 sts before marker, kfb, k1, turn</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Row 2: s1, p to 4 sts before marker, pfb, p1, turn</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Row 3: s1, k to 4 sts before gap, kfb, k1, turn</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Row 4: s1, p to 4 sts before gap, pfb, p1, turn</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Repeat Rows 3 – 4 until there are 31 sts between markers.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">(On purl rows, s1 – slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front. On knit rows, s1 - slip 1 knitwise with yarn in back.)</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >Heel flap:</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Row 1: s1, k to last heel st, ssk last heel st and 1 st from left gusset, turn</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Row 2: * s1, p1 * to last heel st, p2tog last heel st and 1 st from right gusset, turn</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Repeat Rows 1 – 2 until there is only 1 st to be picked up, a right gusset st. (You'll be ending with Row 1.) Do not turn. Work the next pattern row on Needle 1. When you reach Needle 2 again:</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">k2tog (to get rid of the last gusset st), * k1, s1 * across.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">The heel is now finished.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >Leg:</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Continue working in the round. Work same pattern row on Needle 2 as was worked on Needle 1. To increase, change an ssk or k2tog to a k2.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">1st pattern repeat, increase on row 11 between side zig-zags.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">2nd pattern repeat, increase on row 11 on outsides.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">3rd pattern repeat, no increase</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">4th pattern repeat, increase on row 1 in the middle and then on row 11 between side zig-zags</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">5th pattern repeat, increase on row 11 on outsides.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">6th pattern repeat, no increase</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">There are now 41 sts on each needle.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:georgia;" >Cuff:</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">The cuff has k1, p1 ribbing. But, to get the purl stitches over the yo's, there are three p2tog's.</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Next round:</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">k1, p2tog, (k1, p1) twice, k1, p2tog, (k1, p1) 8 times, k1, p2tog, (k1, p1) 5 times -- on each needle</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Next 9 rounds: (k1, p1) around</span><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Bind off.</span>Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-21335392792249834822008-07-23T09:49:00.000-07:002008-10-13T07:32:42.608-07:00I-cord cast onI've made an i-cord cast on once before but wasn't entirely happy withthe result. So, this time, I decided to look for another method. Ifound one that used M1 into the first stitch instead of kfb. But, Iwasn't entirely happy with that one either. So, I asked myself "whydoes the M1 have to be into the first stitch?"<br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAtCJ1Sf5xqatcsASyPZvn8g4z3RfBFNN4o9DnFygDoK8RQ3NQYzivz1n4GtF6ExwTkSCNTWcbBqUfQkENYt5zGePRo-0S0CcSXr8UGhYUr2cIycDlH2Q2PFgnZYIk_xvnmJTqHQCTu_oZ/s1600-r/pic%3Fid=9e30ZV0qojqB3wv6UmXIW2sCD*EIbKPBYvlXv4xQp5Fd3Ig%3D%26size%3Dm" /><br />Here is my new and different way of making an 3-stitch i-cord cast on:<br />1. Cast on 4 stitches.<br />2. Slide the stitches to another dpn or to the other end of a circ (just as you would to make an unattached i-cord).<br />3. k3<br />4. Wrap the yarn around the LHN (left hand needle) as in the picture by wrapping the yarn over the needle from the back and then under the needle again. The yarn starts out in back and ends in the back of the work.<br />5. Slip the 3 stitches on the RHN (right hand needle) back to the LHN purlwise.<br /><br />Repeat steps 3 - 5 until there are the LHN has on it the desired number of stitches to be cast on plus 2.<br />To end, you can then k2tog, k1, return the stitches to the LHN, k2tog, and then return this stitch to the LHN.Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-65045546105636564672007-08-22T08:55:00.000-07:002009-10-19T08:18:23.388-07:00Summer Square boatneck raglan<p><span style="font-family:Arial;"> <span style="font-size:85%;">This is a summery extra-short sleeve raglan. The directions are for a medium size and worsted weight yarn (with a gauge of 4 sts per inch) and size 7 needles. Size 5 needles are used for the sleeve finishing. I used 7 skeins of shine worsted yarn (525 yds). Most people would need 8 skeins.</span></span></p><p><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >It can be made larger/smaller by either doing more/fewer increase rows in the raglan shaping section or casting on more/fewer sts. (If casting on more/fewer sts, try to leave the neckband ratio similar. In this pattern, there are 33 sts for the front/back panel and 11 sts for each sleeve -- a ratio of 3 to 1. So, one could decrease to 27 and 9 -- again a ratio of 3 to 1 and again both odd numbers. One could also increase to 39 and 13.)</span></p><p><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >It's not necessary to work the pattern. I added it because I thought I'd get bored doing straight stockinette for the rest of the pullover. A blog entry on the pattern is <a href="http://knit1605.blogspot.com/2006/10/square-summer-raglan.html">here</a>. It includes a variation of the chart made before I realized that charts are read from the bottom right corner up and across. It also includes a discussion on the best way to join yarn for a slippery cotton blend.<br /></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><b>Neckband:<br /></b></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >CO 92. Join.<br /></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Work *p1, k1* around for 6 rounds, starting w the p1.<br /></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >*p1, k11, p1, k33* twice<br /></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >p92</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><b>Upper Body:<br /></b></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>R1:</b> *P1, k1, m1, knit to 1 st before next purl, m1, k1* four times.<br /></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>R2:</b> Knit the knit sts and the m1's, purl the 4 purl sts</span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Alternate these rnds to 34 increase rnds total and 228 sts total. Then do just R2 until 45 total rnds for me (51 for most people) not including the ribbing – or until the sweater lies 1” below the underarm. Then: p1, *k3, p3* around, k3, p2 (R1 of both the sleeve and garment pattern).</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><b>Lower Body:<br /></b></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >*K1, put the next 47 sts on a spare circ, co9, k67* twice (152 sts total). This is R2 of garment and garment underarm patts. (The 47 sts to be put aside are the sleeve sts.)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >The pattern chart doesn't show up well here. Another version is <a href="http://knit1605.blogspot.com/2006/10/square-summer-raglan.html">here</a>. Click on the chart to see a close-up. A picture of the sweater is at that link and as the second sweater in the link <a href="http://knit1605.blogspot.com/2007/07/frogging-tomato.html">here</a>.</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><img style="width: 592px; height: 280px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamKmONqUJAviUhqQtG-nXrxLjzA1y6qOnjrXHoa3hViApmM2M4KDEHrurwi2l93XaFZAoOCR-MxnaRcnt5_nzZWF5NrUU1FcRJPyoWxVKt9PswkcZYDiMFgmZO7HBsroInmlZekDyxpEJ/s1600-r/pic%3Fid=9e30ZV0qojqB3wv6UmXIW2sCDwm7cRbEpFyqv4xQp5Fd3Ig=&size=m" height="181" width="518" /></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Continue w R3 of garment and garment underarm patts. (Every even rnd is knit around.)</span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">After the patt rnds, continue shaping by decreasing 4 sts every 10th row above the waist and increasing every 5th row below to end with 152 sts at desired length.</span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Lower Garment Ribbing:</b><br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">set-up round: *(k1, p1) twice, k1, p2tog, (k1, p1) twice* around, ending either w (k1, p1) or (k1, p2tog)<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">*k1, p1* around for 14 rnds.<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Bind off.</span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Sleeves:<br /></strong></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Use a needle 1 or 2 sizes smaller than for the rest of the garment. Starting with the middle stitch, knit 4 sts from the underarm cast-on sts, knit the last cast-on st together with the nearest sleeve st, knit to the last of the sleeve sts, knit that together w the nearest cast on stitch, and then knit 3 sts to reach the middle again. (54 sts) (This is R2 of the sleeve pattern.) Continue with R3 of the sleeve patt. (Every even rnd is knit around.)</span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Bind off.</span></span></p><div class="tags" id="tagsLocation"><br />Tags: <a href="http://technorati.com/tag/raglan" target="_blank" rel="tag">raglan</a>, <a href="http://technorati.com/tag/boatneck" target="_blank" rel="tag">boatneck</a>, <a href="http://technorati.com/tag/pullover" target="_blank" rel="tag">pullover</a></div>Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-11542343317289550172007-06-15T07:28:00.000-07:002009-10-19T08:18:47.933-07:00K3P2 Boatneck Pullover<p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">This is a favorite pattern. The idea came originally from knitty.com's <em>Bob</em>. The version I made (in the May 2004 archives of this journal) is the first sweater I made that my oldest complimented me on as being stylish. That one was knitted from the top down and in the round, just as this one is.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwrk-AKHve0PCvuESci5n1K3km8eAg510rf8XedlDIfuFSeUMPxl3bJfkEYSgJdtTt85KCijgSvhcQti4O6KjijEUVmm4YBPAOSAv1ClGVZzo9wGtfc37mXzsDFAcHBz1bqgJY9Qp6_BRH/s1600-r/pic%3Fid=9e30ZV0qojqB3wv6UmXIW2sCD7aGCZylw1obv4xQp5Fd3Ig=&size=m" /></span></span></p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">I've learned a lot of new techniques since then. So, the pattern for this sweater is slightly different from the one I used back then. It's so much different that I decided to write it down here.<br />The yarn I used is Patons Classic Merino New Denim -- which was a pleasure to work with and a pleasure to wear. I used size 7 circulars and had a gauge of 4 sts and 6 rows per inch.</span></span><p></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>Neck</b>:<br />CO 70. Join to work in the round.<br />K1, *p2, k3* 13 times, p2, k2 for 10 rounds.<br />Place marker after 2nd, 7th, 37th, and 42nd sts. (Each marker will be between 2 purl sts. These markers mark the centers of the raglan seams.)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>Upper garment:<br /></b>The raglan seams are k1, p1, (marker), p1, k1. Increases are made outside of the raglan seams on increase rounds, as follows: On increase rounds, work: m1, k1, p1, (marker), p1, k1, m1 with the m1's made to continue the p2, k3 pattern on the sleeves and garment. On the first increase round, each m1 is m1 knit. On the next two increase rounds, each m1 is m1 purl. For the next three increase rounds, it's m1 knit. ....</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>For a wider neckline:</b></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>Neck</b>:<br />CO 80. Join to work in the round.<br />K2, *p2, k3* 15 times, p2, k1 for 10 rounds.<br />Place marker after 3rd, 13th, 43rd, and 53rd sts. (Each marker will be between 2 purl sts. These markers mark the centers of the raglan seams.)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>Upper garment:<br /></b>The raglan seams are k2, p1, (marker), p1, k2. Increases are made outside of the raglan seams on increase rounds, as follows: On increase rounds, work: m1, k2, p1, (marker), p1, k2, m1 with the m1's made to continue the p2, k3 pattern on the sleeves and garment. On the first two increase rounds, each m1 is m1 knit. On the next two increase rounds, each m1 is m1 purl. For the next three increase rounds, it's m1 knit.....</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;">Alternate increase rounds with non-increase rounds to get a total of 20 increase rounds. Then k3p2 around in pattern until garment top is desired length. End with k3 before the first p2 (the center of the first raglan seam).</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>Lower garment:<br /></b>Cast on 12 sts. Put the (purl) stitch before the first marker, plus the stitches between the first and second marker, plus the (purl) stitch after the second marker on a spare circular needle or scarp yarn. Work in pattern to one stitch before the third marker. Cast on 12 sts. Put the (purl) stitch before the third marker, plus the stitches between the third and fourth marker, plus the (purl) stitch after the fourth marker on a spare circular needle or scarp yarn. Work in pattern around. (150 sts on main circular needle.)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;">Work k3p2 ribbing for 14 rounds. On 15th round p2tog two p2 sts under each underarm<br />Start working in stockinette, doing double decreases under each underarm every tenth round until reaching natural waist. (My natural waist falls at 50th round and so I did a total of 4 double decreases.) Work evenly for about an inch. Make double increases under each underarm every fifth round until reaching the original number of stitches.<br />Work k1p1 ribbing for 6 rnds. Bind off (w decrease bind off)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>Sleeves:<br /></b>Starting with the center underarm, pick up and knit/purl in pattern until reaching the sts on the spare circ or scrap yarn. Pass the first two of these sts over the last st worked. Work in pattern to the last two sts in scrap. Slip these sts (to be passed over the next st worked). Pick up and knit/purl in pattern the rest of the underarm cast on sts – passing the two slipped sts over the first of these worked underarm sts. Work in pattern until sleeve is desired length (for a short sleeve, 20-30 rnds). (If I were to make this into a long-sleeve or ¾ sleeve pullover, I would work the ribbing until just above the elbow, then decrease evenly around by about 10%, then work in stockinette decreasing every inch or inch and a half, and finally work a p1k1 ribbing at the cuff – in order to match the sleeves more or less to the body of the sweater.) Bind off (w decrease bind off).</span></p><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span>Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-1864545267918328512007-05-17T11:58:00.000-07:002009-10-29T11:36:07.972-07:00OJ - drop-sleeve pullover<p>Every so often, there is a request on knitting boards such as knittyboard.com for an easy-to-make sweater. This is one of the easiest. The pattern itself is such that it can be made with almost any yarn and in almost any size. The sweater pictured is the 3rd sweater I ever made. The second sweater I ever made was to the same pattern. But, it's no longer with us. I accidently washed it on too high a heat setting and because of its acrylic content, it blossomed to twice its original size. The sweater pictured is too big for me. I made it before I learned to adjust a pattern. The stripes are optional. (There are a lot of major changes in the pattern below from the original pattern.)</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkAfRk8M6W7uVppPSVxC1xGaa0tZn8gjxfbSu-AzOWaHfH4sOJR4QHsp0VCO92HZQ8ZCldg6rRA3_AG_nge9afEyPKQsPt04kD5As-6bDkUTPvNIOToL02jNgovDG6HY2FmhOZwqya-EdY/s1600-r/pic%3Fid=9e30ZV0qojqB3wv6UmXIW2sCD-2r486fJfgov4xQp5Fd3Ig=&size=m" /> </p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="center"></p><p><strong>Generic Drop-Sleeve Boat-Neck Pullover</strong></p><p></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left">The garment front and back are essentially large rectangles with ribbing at both top and lower edges. These are knit first. Then the top (leaving an opening for the neck) and the sides (leaving an armhole opening on each side) are seamed up. Last, stitches are picked up around each armhole to begin the sleeves. (I use 2 circular needles of the same size to make the garment.) </p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-_xfIQETPoei-Go-5dY0sA8iRg7JzpTJN3TsM_7gDcb7RwL8r1SlDCc61PLhR98J_xCncF57CDUwcAjDkrQz_JuczkzYSa-vJ7o14dIF8SvWMAva7FM-67e-Nu4cu6uxlNYqUatEpLczl/s1600-r/pic%3Fid=9e30ZV0qojqB3wv6UmXIW2sCDyOx*3t2G-1Kv4xQp5Fd3Ig%3D%26size%3Dm" /></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left">The pullover is named after a cat of ours who used to help me knit by lying on top of the yarn.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>1. Calculate your gauge.</b> Then decided how wide around you want the sweater to be.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>2. Calculate the sweater circumference.</b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;" align="left">A gauge of 4 sts and 6 rows per inch and a width of 36”.would give 4 x 36 = 144 sts.<br />Half of these belong to the front and half to the back – 72 sts for the front.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left">Because of the ribbing pattern at the top, we want an odd number of sts on both front and back.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;" align="left">Add a st to give 73 sts for the front.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>3.</b> <b>Then decide on how many sts to cast on for the front</b>. Because of the nature of ribbing in general, cast on approximately 10% fewer sts</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;" align="left">90 % of 73 is 65.7. So, cast on 66 sts.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>4. Work k1, p1 ribbing for approximately 2".</b> The knit 1 at the beginning and end of each row, except the first will make seaming easier (although some people prefer starting each row with a slip 1).</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;" align="left">Row 1: K1, *p1, k1* 32 times, k1<br /><span style="color:#993300;">Repeat Row 1 approximately 14 times. (</span><span style="color:#993300;">edited: 13 Dec 2007)</span><br /></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>5. Increase evenly across <span style="color:#993300;">to an odd number of stitches</span>.</b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;" align="left">Increase from 66 sts to 73 sts across.<br />K1, <span style="color:#993300;">*p1, kfb, (p1, k1)</span> 4 times*, repeat * to * across row, ending with k1<br /><i>kfb is knit into the front and then the back of a stitch)</i></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>6. Knit body of sweater. <span style="color:#993300;">(Until now the sweater has no right/wrong side.)<br /></span></b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;" align="left"><span style="color:#993300;">Row 1 (RS): K73<br />Row 2 (WS): K1, p71, k1<br />Repeat these rows until the sweater is 3 - 4" inches less than the desired length. End with a RS row.<br /></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>7. Work top ribbing for 3 - 4". Bind off later.</b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;" align="left">Row 1: K1,*k1, p1* 35 times, k2<br />Row 2: K1, *p1, k1* 36 times<br />Repeat Rows 1 and 2 -- 11 times, approximately. Place sts on scrap yarn or a spare needle. Leave long enough tail to bind off 49 sts (2/3 of the sts).</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>8. Work sweater back the same as the front. </b><span style="color:#993300;"> (I worked back and front at the same time.)</span><b><br /></b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>9. Seam up garment top edge, leaving enough room for the neck. </b><span>(Try on the garment with the top pinned together about a fourth of the way from each shoulder.)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;" align="left">Place garment right sides together. There will be a tail of yarn at each shoulder. Starting at one of the shoulders, bind off <span style="color:#993300;">20</span> sts from front and back (at the same time) using a 3-needle bind off. Then bind off <span style="color:#993300;">33</span> more sts from the part of the garment furthest away (using perhaps the decrease bind off). <span style="color:#993300;">There are now 20 sts left on the back needle.</span> Repeat this process starting at the other shoulder and the other yarn tail. </p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>10. Seam up garment sides, leaving room for the sleeves. </b><span>(Try on the garment to help decided how big a hole to leave for the sleeves.)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><span><span style="color:#993300;">You can stop at this point and weave in all loose ends. The result is a nice-looking shell.</span><br /></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>11. Pick up stitches to begin knitting a sleeve from the armhole down, starting at the bottom of the armhole.</b> Because of the gauge, pick up 4 sts for every 6 rows on the armhole opening. Also, pick up an extra stitch at the garment side seam and the garment top seam. The total number doesn't matter, just so the same number of stitches are picked up when doing the other sleeve.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>12. Knit the sleeves. </b>Mark the starting point. This is the beginning of all rounds. For a tapered sleeve, make decreases every inch and a half, approximately.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;" align="left">Rounds 1-8: Knit around<br />Round 9: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts of round, ssk, k1<br />Repeat these 9 rounds until sleeve is desired length.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>13. Make sleeve ribbing and bind off.</b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 0.79in;" align="left">Round 1: *K1, p2 tog, k1, p1* around, ending either with k1, p1 or k1, p2tog<br /><span style="color:#993300;">OR -- Round 1: *k1, p2tog* around, ending with k1, p1 or k1, p2tog or k1, p3tog</span><br />Round 2: *K1, p1* around<br />Repeat Round 2 for about an inch and a half. Bind off.</p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;" align="left"><b>14. Make second sleeve the same as the first.</b></p><div class="tags" id="tagsLocation"><br />Tags: <a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/boatneck+pullover+knit+shell">boatneck pullover knit shell</a></div>Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-21446190879034984532007-03-30T07:44:00.000-07:002008-10-11T17:29:43.812-07:00Edges<p><font face="Arial" size="2">I thought I'd better write these thoughts down before I forget them.</font></p><br /><p><font face="Arial" size="2">First of all, I've discovered by watching <em>Knitty Gritty</em>, that I've been doing my knit cast on and probably cable cast on incorrectly. I'd been slipping the newly cast on sts with the needles pointing toward each other instead of pointing in the same direction. The latter gives a twist to the bottom of the sts and makes for a looser cast on. However, for the lace project I'm working on now, I prefer my old method. (The cast on loops aren't as large.)</font></p><br /><p><font face="Arial" size="2">Secondly, although a slipped st edge look nice for scarves, it doesn't look as good on lace.<br/></font><font face="Arial" size="2"><em>(---s1 is slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front ---)</em></font></p><br /><p><font face="Arial" size="2">For <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger/4078/1774/320/201113/scarf.jpg">scarves</a>:<br/>Start each row with s1, k2 and end with k3. <br/>This gives a slipped st edging with the slipped sts facing outward.<br/>Though, .... for <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpbGhrNe6CbI9fZv4H000xELuYA45mnFWFyirInEHtNShxaohXKXkvmTQiprlX2c2k9kBYAY8PebmTyzOh8hnmxHK9h7RC7mL0s3GHoPQQWcOpWxZTE2Wnof41M05V1WrbHYErIAVHuoo/s1600-h/shawl1.jpg">a feather and fan shawl</a>, I instead began and ended each row with k1 or more. It remained flat since every very other WS row began with k17 and ended with k16. The alternate WS rows were k1, p across, k1. A garter sitch edging seemed too bunchy for the shawl.</font></p><br /><p><font face="Arial" size="2">For my <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvVn1U_uof7IinMJ1xv6dCSiq9O9odx1A8NF0GoC3thfBljftDBQ9k3eUiG-60OqdVE1yDyRb4rHc_ifOE5Y549bvYEOvF8OCWjO1Hgm_v70ZR1RjWmXn114cAUh2RwNL9HLYVkTTtJ80/s1600-h/LCurtain0407.jpg">latest (lace) knit project</a>:<br/>(RS): s1, k4, ... and end with k4, p1<br/>(WS): s1, (k1 tbl, p1) twice, ... and end with (p1, k1 tbl) twice, p1<br/>This lies flat and gives an edging with bumps plus a little interest and sturdiness to the edge.</font></p><br /><p><font face="Arial" size="2">For sock heel flaps:<br/>(RS): k across<br/>(WS): s1, p across, end with s1 (for a regular heel flap)<br/>or<br/>(WS): s1, (p1, s1) across, end with s1 (for thicker heel flap)<br/>or<br/>(WS1): s1, (s1, p1) across, end with s1<br/>(WS2): s1, (p1, s1) across, end with s1 (for eye of partridge heel)<br/>These give a slipped st edge that lies on the WS of the heel flap. (I like to do knit sts better than purl ones and so figured why not do the slipping on the WS.)</font></p><br /><p><font face="Arial"><font size="2">For <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm46IkimKNqsQoQXzdhyKVNOCyjzuEtnK1iofrb2kP0puT2JM1lkMAqP-TB5CxzFHXV5mtNetq4r8RbDmYNv580dtJcnM5JfDPHprSnGIfNYkjKsOFkpXWGRjErLU4NjfnSLdiN4OCw1g/s320/midAprdishcloth.jpg">dishcloths</a>, I prefer not to start rows with slipped sts. However, the one dishcloth I made with a k1 edge didn't lie flat. So, in the future, I'm going to start and end rows with k2 (or more) or else start rows with (k1, p1) and end with (p1, k1) or some repeat of the moss st.</font></font></p><br /><p><font size="2"><font size="-0"><font face="Arial" size="2">Finally, </font><a href="http://golden-apples.blogspot.com/2007/03/cast-ons-part-1.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">OfTroy</font></a><font face="Arial" size="2"> has a nice summary of cast ons in several linked blog entries. (The picot cast on sounds interesting.)</font></font></font></p>Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-30617168187133391522007-01-31T07:34:00.000-08:002008-10-13T07:08:11.842-07:00Tubey variation<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbaNJ2ew5qfCzbbB37UWyG_X-eeQJ7TktmOXmDfjyBsAhxsXHSJMhQyUSDcwkpfNNnQOJfuxJivDMMXEH13CIH5WpNkS6LlF5Rq1Zg8b8eUiHa26B0BpDvJNjZK2OZAnzQAYT_13dSe4s/s1600-h/tsquared.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbaNJ2ew5qfCzbbB37UWyG_X-eeQJ7TktmOXmDfjyBsAhxsXHSJMhQyUSDcwkpfNNnQOJfuxJivDMMXEH13CIH5WpNkS6LlF5Rq1Zg8b8eUiHa26B0BpDvJNjZK2OZAnzQAYT_13dSe4s/s320/tsquared.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256630675978740754" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:georgia;font-size:85%;" >I love <a href="http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter05/PATTtubey.html">Tubey</a>, but I wanted a higher neckline. So, here's my variation of Tubey with an underarm seam and a square garter stitch neckline. The neckline goes down further in back, but not as far in front as the original. I also put in fewer stripes. The underarm seam plus the neckline construction make the neck front higher.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Gauge:</span> 4 sts and 6 rows per inch<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Materials:</span> This pullover used 1 skein Dark Sage Red Heart Super Saver (7 oz, 364 yds), 1 skein Espresso Caron (7 oz, 355 yds), and 1 skein Claret Red Heart Super Saver (7 oz, 364 yds).<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Notes:</span> I was intending to have the striping on both the TUBE and SHRUG SLEEVE to be essentially the same. However, it turned out that the Espresso was running out as I was working on the TUBE (I'd already made one stripe of Espresso per sleeve.), and so I decided to have Claret for the bottom half of each sleeve instead of Espresso.<br /><br />I made the SHRUG SLEEVEs a little bigger around at the top than I would if this were a raglan – in fact, by about an inch . It was an accident, but I'm glad that I did for the fit at the shoulder.<br /><br />I use s1 instead of sl1 for slip one to avoid confusing myself. (Also, unless otherwise stated, I used a single cast on. I've been using it for dishcloths and like how unobtrusive it is.)<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Where the numbers come from:</span> The important numbers in this pattern are the number of sts around for the TUBE (176 sts, which is divisible by 8), the number of sts around at the top of the SHRUG SLEEVE (60 sts), and the length of the underarm cast on (11 sts). (The underarm cast on will work as small as zero sts but shouldn't be any larger than around 1/15th of the number of sts for the TUBE part.) All the other numbers come from these. The number of sts cast on for the SHRUG MIDDLE is 60 – 11 or 49. Take 176, divide it by 4, multiply the result by 3, and then subtract twice 11. This gives the number of rows for the SHRUG MIDDLE (110 rows). (Also, 110 plus twice 11 is the 132, which is the circumference of the TUBE, before the increase rnd.) These 110 rows are divided into thirds after subtracting the 16 rows for the side neck edgings, with 30 rows for the sides and 34 for the middle (which are all divisible by 2). The cast on for the SHRUG MIDDLE (continued) is 17, which is half of 34. The “k25” in Rows 32, etc. of the SHRUG MIDDLE is just over half of 49. The “21” in Rows 38 and 73 is 4 less than 25.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Directions:</span></span><span style=";font-family:georgia;font-size:85%;" ><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Ld8pc8EIsb1YTU4GBiYwSRfpEEq-sphJl68thAV5gik3BRZcQLhhQp2z2sC1jszf9A-PJXD5qMpAl3X8TFzExO3cNL0aQc4vp4VACDyedb8c0JHze7hU4jrphMO3JJnBcfyDKZ5L_8E5/s1600-h/TSquareNeck.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Ld8pc8EIsb1YTU4GBiYwSRfpEEq-sphJl68thAV5gik3BRZcQLhhQp2z2sC1jszf9A-PJXD5qMpAl3X8TFzExO3cNL0aQc4vp4VACDyedb8c0JHze7hU4jrphMO3JJnBcfyDKZ5L_8E5/s320/TSquareNeck.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256630675667643586" border="0" /></a></span><span style=";font-family:georgia;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">SHRUG MIDDLE:</span><br />CO49 (using a crochet provisional cast on) – in Dark Sage<br />Row 1 (RS): s1, k48<br />Row 2 (WS): s1, p48<br />Repeat Rows 1 and 2. Then:<br />Row 31 (RS) s1, k across, end w k2tog, k1<br />Row 32 (WS): s1, k25, p to end<br />Repeat Rows 31 and 32. Then:<br />Row 37 (RS) s1, k across, end w k2tog, k1 (45 sts)<br />Row 38 (WS) s1 to begin BO of 21 sts, k4, p19 (24 sts – the last bind off leaves a loop on the needle)<br />Row 39 (RS) s1, k23<br />Row 40 (WS) s1, k4, p19<br />Repeat Rows 39 and 40. Then:<br />Row 73 (RS) s1, k23, CO 21 (45 sts)<br />Row 74 (WS) s1, k25, p to end<br />Row 75 (RS) s1, k across, end k row w kfb (an increase made by knitting in the front and then back of a st), k1<br />Repeat Rows 74 and 75. Then:<br />Row 82 (WS): s1, p48<br />Repeat Rows 1 and 2. Then:<br />Row 111 (RS): s1, k48, co 11 (60 sts)<br /><br /><b>SHRUG SLEEVE: </b>Start knitting in the round.<br />Rnds 1-8: k around<br />Rnd 9: k around, end w ssk, k1.<br />Rnd 10: k1, k2tog, k to end<br />Repeat Rnds 1-10 to 50 sts,. Then knit without decreasing to cuff, changing colors as desired.<br />Rnds 1-45 in Dark Sage<br />Rnds 46 – 51 in Espresso<br />Rest in Claret – for me (with short arms), to 91st rnd.<br /><br /><b>Cuff:</b><br />*K4, k2tog, k4* to end of round, ending w knit sts<br />P around then k around 3 times, then purl around once more (to match the garter st neckline). Bind off. (I used a single bind off, knitting into each purl st to bind off.) -- The cuff edging matches the neck edging.<br /><br /><span><span style="font-weight: bold;">Other Shrug Sleeve:</span><br />Carefully undo crochet sts and put the other sides of the CO sts onto circ needle. Knit these sts. Then co 11 (or possibly 12) using single cast on. (60 sts on needle) (Sometimes this provisional cast on gives me the number originally cast on, sometimes one fewer.)<br />Follow directions for SHRUG SLEEVE.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">SHRUG MIDDLE (continued):</span><br />Starting at the right side of the neck opening (the last st of Row 73), pick up and knit 1 st, CO 17 using single cast on, pick up and knit the equivalent st on the other side of the neck opening (the first “st” of Row 38). (Pick up and knit the sts here by pulling the yarn through both loops of the slip st edging from WS to RS.) Turn.<br />*Slip 1, k across, pick up and knit one st (the st below the one previously picked up). Turn.*<br />Repeat * to * until there are 27 sts on needle.<br /><br /><b>TUBE:</b><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtQ1z84ywNE1UGGp5rNbmbT0i_HwqvznluXR7F-oO9H-u6oqwBBudR42Ozy-4-3N2fJDSSIT_FrlUwBBtRXHyoyToVQeQaus3y1BqRxb1My2JpuMV1iT-8uSRPV-WLe7J_mt0MKZbltLT/s1600-h/altTubeytop.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtQ1z84ywNE1UGGp5rNbmbT0i_HwqvznluXR7F-oO9H-u6oqwBBudR42Ozy-4-3N2fJDSSIT_FrlUwBBtRXHyoyToVQeQaus3y1BqRxb1My2JpuMV1iT-8uSRPV-WLe7J_mt0MKZbltLT/s320/altTubeytop.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256630679591807506" border="0" /></a><br />Slip 1, k26, pick up and knit 14 sts from the left front of the garment, pick up and knit 11 sts from the left sleeve, pick up and knit 55 sts from the garment back, pick up and knit 11 sts from the right sleeve, pick up and knit 14 sts from the right front of the garment. (132 sts)<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">(To pick up and knit for the front and back, first pick up the sts by sliding, for example, a size 3 circular needle through the back/WS loops of the sts to be picked up, count the loops to make sure it's the correct number, then knit the loops off of the smaller needle untwisted. To pick up and knit for the underarm, identify the sts that were cast on, then use a crochet hook to pull the yarn from the WS to the RS through the tops of the sts.)</span><br /><br />Then:<br />*k1, m1p, k2* around (176 sts)<br />(To m1p, I did *k1, yo, k2* in this round and then *k1, p the yo twisted, k2* in the next. Then:)<br />*k1, p1, k2* around (176 sts)<br /><br />Continue this k3p1 ribbing until garment is desired length.<br /><br />Change colors as desired, making changes under right armhole.<br />Rnds 1 – 14 in Dark Sage<br />Rnds 15 – 21 in Espresso<br />Rnds 22 – 32 in Claret<br />Rest in Espresso (for me, to 78th rnd, but I'm short)<br />Bind off. (I used a single bind off, knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts.)<br /><span style="font-style: italic;">edited to re-add pictures to directions</span><br /></span></span>Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-83971237890417754352007-01-11T08:29:00.000-08:002008-10-13T07:53:29.627-07:00sleeve for Dec 2006 raglan<span style="font-style: italic;">First, some instructions and pictures on smocking in the round on 2 circular needles:</span><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >The sleeves are pretty straighforward except for the smocking, especially the smocking over 2 needles. I like 2 circs better than Magic Loop or dpn's. To smock over 2 needles, put the needle points of the 2 needles together, pointing the same direction,</span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" > and draw the yarn through as if there were just one </span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >needle. I used longer circs and so left a "Magic loop" between the sts that had been worked and the sts that are now to be worked. Then finish off the sts with the first circular. Use the second circ to work the rest of the sts that were smocked, being careful to keep the horizontal yarn on the correct sides. The first pic is placing the needle between sts in order to draw it through. The second is putting this yarn onto the circ, and the third is starting to knit the yarn and st together.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn1duv-1FohlKDEkok8FgNGhXJzP05WpXwoGKbwppUg2WvPWvYNwgpz5EOymm1PX-J7eLiMovElkTCxyHytSQFLrLZEHXKgGev_ePz1uLZDFaNBOJ4_EOdjHRWI8-_v8JuSaL7f-Yzaq6X/s1600-h/smockstep1.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn1duv-1FohlKDEkok8FgNGhXJzP05WpXwoGKbwppUg2WvPWvYNwgpz5EOymm1PX-J7eLiMovElkTCxyHytSQFLrLZEHXKgGev_ePz1uLZDFaNBOJ4_EOdjHRWI8-_v8JuSaL7f-Yzaq6X/s200/smockstep1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256648341407705650" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6SFR57wQc2XYHGKuoqZEqsPUt66oL94N3eV_czhMh_BkwOoOQGOCZV2L7IVivyNVBt3NpEKsODdoKfLnrzmrTwbz-ygNSiskO9YwA7zJVMpuEcvZ0wZpjVMLizaP0RUIOmgzeD2185vbx/s1600-h/smockstep2.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6SFR57wQc2XYHGKuoqZEqsPUt66oL94N3eV_czhMh_BkwOoOQGOCZV2L7IVivyNVBt3NpEKsODdoKfLnrzmrTwbz-ygNSiskO9YwA7zJVMpuEcvZ0wZpjVMLizaP0RUIOmgzeD2185vbx/s200/smockstep2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256648341961874978" border="0" /></a></p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxTfZMnVdTimFUbwG9WwMzgX7HrD6TuMQHpTF1sbnVJ9pckzb8HWmor2h926SPzJ1un0wtO0-6emoVlMXimEVn-CwEQVCAHb20Cpe9OX1W1xXjYMNzmt-AGZEdX6WL6b8NOMVclYu2ff4w/s1600-h/smockstep3.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxTfZMnVdTimFUbwG9WwMzgX7HrD6TuMQHpTF1sbnVJ9pckzb8HWmor2h926SPzJ1un0wtO0-6emoVlMXimEVn-CwEQVCAHb20Cpe9OX1W1xXjYMNzmt-AGZEdX6WL6b8NOMVclYu2ff4w/s200/smockstep3.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256648350105811810" border="0" /></a><p></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><b><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span></b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><b><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span></b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><b><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span></b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><b><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span></b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><b><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span></b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-style: italic;font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Now, to continue the pattern from the <a href="http://carol-myknittingpage.blogspot.com/2006/12/top-down-crew-neck-pullover.html">previous post</a>:</span><b><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span></b></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><b><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Sleeves:<br /></span></b><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Starting at the middle of the 18 sts that were cast on, pick up and knit 9 sts. Return the last st knitted to the left-hand needle. Pass the next st (This st was put on scrap.) over the st. Slip the st back to the right-hand needle. K68. Slip the next st (This st was put on scrap.). Pick up and knit 1 st. Pass slipped st over. Pick up and knit 8 sts. (end of rnd, 86 sts on needle)<br /></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Rounds 1-7: K around<br /></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Round 7: K around to third to last st, ssk, k1<br /></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Round 8: K1, k2tog, k around</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Repeat rounds 1-8 until the sleeve comes to the elbow (about 50% of total usual sleeve length). This gives a bit of room around the elbow. Though, if desired, the full length sleeve can be worn pushed up to ¾ length with sort of a puffy sleeve for the top. (I worked it to the 52nd rnd, but then I have short arms.) Then:</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Do smocking pattern – except decrease 2 sts about every 8th rnd, as follows, ending on Rnd 2 or 6. Then bind off as for the main part of the garment:<br /></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >(Note: I started with the pattern for a rnd 1 of 74 sts = 2 mod 8 sts = 2 plus a multiple of 8 sts)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Smock over 6</b>:Insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st onleft needle</span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Smocking Pattern</b> (When rnd 1 is 0 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 6 mod 8 sts)<br /><em>Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:</em> *P1, k2, p1* around.<br /><em>Rnd 4</em>: *P1, smock over 6, k1, p2, k2 , p1* around.<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Rnd 6</em>: P1, k2tog, p1, <span>*p1, k2, p1*</span> around, p1, ssk, p1<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Rnd 7</em>: P1, k1, *p2, k2* around, p2, k1, p1<br /><em>Rnd 8</em>: *P1, k2 (<i>first repeat, k1)</i>, p2, smock over 6 (<i>last repeat, smock over 4</i>), k1 <i>(last repeat, no k1)</i>, p1* around. (For the last repeat, the 4th and 5th sts on the left needle are beyond the end of the round.).</span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Smocking Pattern</b> (When rnd 1 is 6 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 4 mod 8 sts)<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:</em>: P1, k1, *p2, k2* around, p2, k1, p1<br /><em>Rnd 4</em>: *P1, smock over 6 (<i>first and last repeats, smock over 5</i>), k1 <i>(first repeat, no k1)</i>, p2, k2 <i>(last repeat, k1)</i>, p1* around.<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Rnd 6</em>: P1, k2tog, <span>*p1, k2, p1*</span> around, ssk, p1<br /><em>Rnd 7</em>: P1, k1, *P1, k2, p1* around, k1, p1.<br /><em>Rnd 8</em>: *P1, k2 <i>(first repeat, k1)</i>, p2 <i>(first repeat, p1)</i>, smock over 6 <i>(last repeat, smock over 4)</i>, k1 <i>(last repeat, no k1)</i>, p1* around.</span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Smocking Pattern</b> (When rnd 1 is 4 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 2 mod 8 sts)<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:</em>: P1, k1, *P1, k2, p1* around, k1, p1.<br /><em>Rnd 4</em>: *P1, smock over 6 (<i>first repeat, smock over 4</i>), k1 <i>(first repeat, no k1)</i>, p2 <i>(first and last repeats, p1)</i>, k2 <i>(last repeat, k1)</i>, p1* around.<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>(Alternate Rnd 4</em>: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, *p1, smock over 6, k1, p2, k2, p1* around, p1, smock over 10, k1, p1, k1, p1.)<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Rnd 6</em>: P1, k2tog,<span>*k2, p2*</span> around, k2, ssk, p1<br /><em>Rnds 7, 9,10, 11</em>: P1, k1, *k2, p2* around, k3, p1.<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Rnd 8</em>: *P1, smock over 6 (<i>first and last repeats, smock over 7</i>), k1 <i>(first repeat, no k1)</i>, p2, k2 <i>(last repeat, k3)</i>, p1* around.<br /><em>Rnd 12</em>: *P1, k2 <i>(first repeat, k3)</i>, p2, smock over 6 <i>(last repeat, smock over 8)</i> , k1 <i>(last repeat, k2)</i>, p1* around.</span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Smocking Pattern</b> (When rnd 1 is 2 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 0 mod 8 sts)<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:</em>: P1, k1, *k2, p2* around, k3, p1.<br /><em>Rnd 4</em>: *P1, smock over 6 (<i>first and last repeats, smock over 7</i>), k1 <i>(first repeat, no k1)</i>, p2, k2 <i>(last repeat, k3)</i>, p1* around.<br /></span></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Rnd 6</em>: P1, k2tog, <span>*k1, p2, k1*</span> around, ssk, p1<br /><em>Rnd 7</em>: <span>*P1, k2, p1*</span> around.<br /><em>Rnd 8</em>: *P1, k2, p2, smock over 6, k1, p1* around.</span></span></p>Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-74173371738907538562006-12-11T10:55:00.000-08:002009-03-20T22:18:05.409-07:00Top-down Crew-Neck Pullover<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgvKlyztzWLD6C-MVrvqkd6xIzz8YTs-eVFrtwQ0KkW3-dv2bV7xgoPQCjyqIx5CvcbDDsRUHryunNX2WwyDBfd7ZdN3G_6jSpZc-Cziv2D5ooukFm1_YrTETLC947kqjiAD8v1_Ee016p/s1600-h/RaglanSmock2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgvKlyztzWLD6C-MVrvqkd6xIzz8YTs-eVFrtwQ0KkW3-dv2bV7xgoPQCjyqIx5CvcbDDsRUHryunNX2WwyDBfd7ZdN3G_6jSpZc-Cziv2D5ooukFm1_YrTETLC947kqjiAD8v1_Ee016p/s320/RaglanSmock2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256652604578401058" border="0" /></a><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Top-down Crew-Neck Pullover</b><br />This is a slightly wider neck raglan with a crew neck knitted from the top down and in the round with size 3 needles. The neckline is done in garter stitch. The lower half of the pullover plus the sleeves below the elbow is from <a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall06/PATTsmock.html">the Smock pullover pattern in Knitty.com</a>.</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Notes:</b><br />My gauge for Mystic Inca yarn (after washing) is 6 sts and 8 rows per inch w size 3 needles.<br />The raglan seams are 3 sts wide and consist of k3 on the RS -- p3 on the WS. Excluding the raglan seams, each sleeve initially consists of 10 sts, and the back 44 sts. There are initially 10 more sts to the front than the back. This difference disappears as yo's are made to the back but not the front.<br />The first line, in effect, says to knit the left sleeve, the left-back seam, the back, the right-back seam, and the right sleeve and then to wrap the yarn around 1 st of the front-right seam and then to turn the work. The second line says to purl all the sts knit in the previous row, making increases next to the raglan seams, and then wrap the yarn around 1 st of the front-left seam, before turning the work. In subsequent rows, previously wrapped sts are also knit or purled at the end of a row before wrapping the next stitch and turning. Stitches from the front seams and the garment front are picked up one or more sts at a time until the front neckline is low enough.<br />The yo increases should be knitted twisted in the next, RS, row or round. The direction of the yo is important, as well. It should be: \ seam / , when looking at the top of the needle from the RS. It will look like: / seam \ , when looking at the top of the needle from the WS.</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em> For worsted weight with 4 sts and 6 rows per inch, cast on 86. Allot 3 sts per seam, 4 per sleeve, 28 for the back, 38 for the front. Co 10 at each underarm to give a garment circumference of 160 sts.</em><span style="font-size:100%;"> </span><em>The first row of the sleeve then has 56 sts in total.</em></span></p><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Neckline:</b><br />CO 130, join<br />k one rnd, p one rnd 7 times.</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><b><span style="font-size:85%;">Upper garment:</span></b><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">k70, w&t.<br />yo, p10, yo, p3, yo, p44, yo, p3, yo, p10, yo, w&t<br />k77, w&t. (The change in the sts knit comes from the yo's and the w&t's.)<br />p1, yo, p12, yo, p3, yo, p46, yo, p3, yo, p12, yo, p1, w&t<br />k85, w&t<br />p2, yo, p14, yo, p3, yo, p48, yo, p3, yo, p14, yo, p2, w&t<br />k93, w&t<br />p3, yo, p16, yo, p3, yo, p50, yo, p3, yo, p16, yo, p3, w&t</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br />(front raglan seams now fully formed)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">k101, w&t<br />p4, yo, p18, yo, p3, yo, p52, yo, p3, yo, p18, yo, p4, w&t<br />(number of st in back now equal to front)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">k109, w&t</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br />p2, yo, p3, yo, p20, yo, p3, yo, p54, yo, p3, yo, p20, yo, p3, yo, p2, w&t<br />k119, w&t<br />p4, yo, p3, yo, p22, yo, p3, yo, p56, yo, p3, yo, p22, yo, p3, yo, p4, w&t<br />k129, w&t</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"> Continue in this manner until there are only 24-30 sts (4-5" worth of sts -- I chose 26 sts) left in front that haven't been worked -- in which case do not w&t on the last RS row. Instead start knitting in the round, as follows:</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Note: When coming to the wrapped st that hasn't been worked yet, pick the wrap up and knit it with the adjacent/preceding st instead of the st it was wrapped around.</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Rnd 1: *k to next "k3 seam", yo, k3, yo, k to next "k3 seam", yo, k3, yo* twice<br />Rnd 2: k around</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Alternate Rnd's 1 and 2 until there are 58 sleeve sts (excluding the seam).<br />Then do Rnd 2 thrice followed by Rnd 1 until there are 66 sleeve sts.<br />Then do only Rnd 2 until top of garment is desired length. Then</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;">*k to next "k3 seam", k1, co18, put next 70 sts on a spare circ needle or yarn (for the sleeve)* twice, k to 1 st before middle of left underarm. This (the left side) is now where rnds start and end. (240 total sts for garment)</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Lower garment:</b><br />K around for 8 rnds (about 1").<br />Start <a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall06/PATTsmock.html">smocking pattern</a>, working the pattern on the RS and in the round (The original pattern is worked flat.):</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Smocking Pattern</b> (Worked over a multiple of 8 sts)<br /><em>Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, & 7</em>: *P2, k2* 60 times.<br /><em>Rnd 4</em>: *P2, smock (--insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st on left needle), k1, p2, k2* 30 times.<br /><em>Rnd 8</em>: *P2, k2, p2, smock (--insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st on left needle), k1* 30 times. (For the last repeat, the 6th and 7th sts on the left needle are beyond the end of the round.).</span></p><p face="Arial" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-size:85%;">End with Rnd 2 or 6. Bind off loosely (single bind off, purl p sts, knit k sts).</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0in; font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Sleeves:<br /></strong>The directions for the sleeves are too complicated and lengthy to be added in this post. Instead, they are in my next post:</span></p><a href="http://carol-myknittingpage.blogspot.com/2007/01/sleeve-for-dec-2006-raglan.html"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >http://carol-myknittingpage.blogspot.com/2007/01/sleeve-for-dec-2006-raglan.html</span></a>Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-50074087080231089632006-10-13T07:49:00.000-07:002009-10-29T11:36:35.766-07:00sock toes and heels<span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" >Here are some general ideas on toes and heels. I've found that I like them curved instead of straight. In general, for a toe, my current favorite is to cast on about an inch of sts using the Turkish cast on, then determine the number of increase rounds needed. Do increase rounds every round for the first half of the increase rounds needed. Increase every other round for the rest less two. Then increase every third round twice. Finally, if needed for the top, make increases on top For example:<br /></span><br /><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" >Wrap yarn around 2 circ needles 9 times. k9 off of top needle. k9 off of bottom needle.<br />R1: k1, m1, k..., m1, k1 on top needle, k1, m1, k...., m1, k1 on bottom needle.<br />Repeat R1 to 19 sts on each needle<br />Alternate R2 (k across) with R1 to a total of 25 sts per needle<br />Do R2, R2, R1 to a total of 29 sts per needle<br />Do R2 on top needle and k across on lower needle. (31 sts on top, 29 on bottom)<br /><br />My favorite heel is<a href="http://rhitsqueaky.blogspot.com/2006/08/notes-on-widdershins-heel.html" target="_top"> the Widdershins heel</a>. It's a toe-up heel-flap heel with no sts to pick up. To make calculations for the heel, determine the number of rows desired for the heel flap (in the example below, 28 rows). Then determine how wide you want the bottom of the heel (in the example below, 23 sts). Finally, decided how wide you want the heel flap (in the example below, 31 sts).</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCjpfY-tBiop-nxiW64ytJC4AhgnZ9qyd7g7uhesCNzixuCRZkuX3fMuGJTPsm8jdQDa2I7h3PHG0foX4gjTDzujicslObQ9L3C__qXOlkR-OxXAR3WNAro8BCX9cOEP7YwQYColaqEeE_/s1600-h/Widdershins_chart.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCjpfY-tBiop-nxiW64ytJC4AhgnZ9qyd7g7uhesCNzixuCRZkuX3fMuGJTPsm8jdQDa2I7h3PHG0foX4gjTDzujicslObQ9L3C__qXOlkR-OxXAR3WNAro8BCX9cOEP7YwQYColaqEeE_/s320/Widdershins_chart.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256653835544989138" border="0" /></a><br /><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:85%;" ><br />Approximately 4" (for me) before the end of the foot, start making gusset increases as in the Widdershins pattern. For a heel flap of 28 rows and 31 sts wide and a bottom heel 23 sts wide, increase to 51 (= 28 + 23) sts then work this variation of the Widdershins heel on the middle 23 sts. (The middle 23 sts become the heel flap. The 14 sts on either side are the left and right gussets.)<br />Row 1: k to 2 sts before end of heel sts, inc1, k1, turn<br />Row 2: s1, p to 2 sts before end of heel sts, inc1, p1, turn<br />Row 3: s1, k to <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">3</span> sts before gap, inc1, k1, turn<br />Row 4: s1, p to <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">3</span> sts before gap, inc1, p1, turn<br />Rep rows 3 and 4 until there are 29 heel sts (2 fewer than final heel flap size). Then<br />s1, k to <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">4 (or 5)</span> sts before gap, inc1, k1, turn<br />s1, p to <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">4 (or 5)</span> sts before gap, inc1, p1, turn</span> <p></p><p><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >(The numbers in red are a change from the original.) Then to make the heel flap:<br />Row 1: s1, k to last heel st, ssk last heel st and 1 st from left gusset<br />Row 2: s 1, p to last heel st, p2tog last heel st and 1 st from right gusset</span></p><p><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">Note: The chart is an old one -- made before I switched from numbering from the top down to from the bottom up.</span><br /></span></p>Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7838855319148083401.post-28870467721379607922006-09-09T09:34:00.000-07:002008-10-11T17:29:43.814-07:00Karen's Sugar-Free Diabetes Walk Socks<a target="_top" href="http://knittinmom.blogspot.com/2006/09/do-i-take-advantage.html">Karen's Sugar-Free Diabetes Walk Socks</a> is an easily knit cabled sock
from KnittinMom in sportweight yarn for size 3 needles (or
thereabouts). Proceeds from the sale of the pattern will aid in
the fight against diabetes.Carolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18378658078131278144noreply@blogger.com0