Wednesday, January 31, 2007
Gauge: 4 sts and 6 rows per inch
Materials: This pullover used 1 skein Dark Sage Red Heart Super Saver (7 oz, 364 yds), 1 skein Espresso Caron (7 oz, 355 yds), and 1 skein Claret Red Heart Super Saver (7 oz, 364 yds).
Notes: I was intending to have the striping on both the TUBE and SHRUG SLEEVE to be essentially the same. However, it turned out that the Espresso was running out as I was working on the TUBE (I'd already made one stripe of Espresso per sleeve.), and so I decided to have Claret for the bottom half of each sleeve instead of Espresso.
I made the SHRUG SLEEVEs a little bigger around at the top than I would if this were a raglan – in fact, by about an inch . It was an accident, but I'm glad that I did for the fit at the shoulder.
I use s1 instead of sl1 for slip one to avoid confusing myself. (Also, unless otherwise stated, I used a single cast on. I've been using it for dishcloths and like how unobtrusive it is.)
Where the numbers come from: The important numbers in this pattern are the number of sts around for the TUBE (176 sts, which is divisible by 8), the number of sts around at the top of the SHRUG SLEEVE (60 sts), and the length of the underarm cast on (11 sts). (The underarm cast on will work as small as zero sts but shouldn't be any larger than around 1/15th of the number of sts for the TUBE part.) All the other numbers come from these. The number of sts cast on for the SHRUG MIDDLE is 60 – 11 or 49. Take 176, divide it by 4, multiply the result by 3, and then subtract twice 11. This gives the number of rows for the SHRUG MIDDLE (110 rows). (Also, 110 plus twice 11 is the 132, which is the circumference of the TUBE, before the increase rnd.) These 110 rows are divided into thirds after subtracting the 16 rows for the side neck edgings, with 30 rows for the sides and 34 for the middle (which are all divisible by 2). The cast on for the SHRUG MIDDLE (continued) is 17, which is half of 34. The “k25” in Rows 32, etc. of the SHRUG MIDDLE is just over half of 49. The “21” in Rows 38 and 73 is 4 less than 25.
CO49 (using a crochet provisional cast on) – in Dark Sage
Row 1 (RS): s1, k48
Row 2 (WS): s1, p48
Repeat Rows 1 and 2. Then:
Row 31 (RS) s1, k across, end w k2tog, k1
Row 32 (WS): s1, k25, p to end
Repeat Rows 31 and 32. Then:
Row 37 (RS) s1, k across, end w k2tog, k1 (45 sts)
Row 38 (WS) s1 to begin BO of 21 sts, k4, p19 (24 sts – the last bind off leaves a loop on the needle)
Row 39 (RS) s1, k23
Row 40 (WS) s1, k4, p19
Repeat Rows 39 and 40. Then:
Row 73 (RS) s1, k23, CO 21 (45 sts)
Row 74 (WS) s1, k25, p to end
Row 75 (RS) s1, k across, end k row w kfb (an increase made by knitting in the front and then back of a st), k1
Repeat Rows 74 and 75. Then:
Row 82 (WS): s1, p48
Repeat Rows 1 and 2. Then:
Row 111 (RS): s1, k48, co 11 (60 sts)
SHRUG SLEEVE: Start knitting in the round.
Rnds 1-8: k around
Rnd 9: k around, end w ssk, k1.
Rnd 10: k1, k2tog, k to end
Repeat Rnds 1-10 to 50 sts,. Then knit without decreasing to cuff, changing colors as desired.
Rnds 1-45 in Dark Sage
Rnds 46 – 51 in Espresso
Rest in Claret – for me (with short arms), to 91st rnd.
*K4, k2tog, k4* to end of round, ending w knit sts
P around then k around 3 times, then purl around once more (to match the garter st neckline). Bind off. (I used a single bind off, knitting into each purl st to bind off.) -- The cuff edging matches the neck edging.
Other Shrug Sleeve:
Carefully undo crochet sts and put the other sides of the CO sts onto circ needle. Knit these sts. Then co 11 (or possibly 12) using single cast on. (60 sts on needle) (Sometimes this provisional cast on gives me the number originally cast on, sometimes one fewer.)
Follow directions for SHRUG SLEEVE.
SHRUG MIDDLE (continued):
Starting at the right side of the neck opening (the last st of Row 73), pick up and knit 1 st, CO 17 using single cast on, pick up and knit the equivalent st on the other side of the neck opening (the first “st” of Row 38). (Pick up and knit the sts here by pulling the yarn through both loops of the slip st edging from WS to RS.) Turn.
*Slip 1, k across, pick up and knit one st (the st below the one previously picked up). Turn.*
Repeat * to * until there are 27 sts on needle.
Slip 1, k26, pick up and knit 14 sts from the left front of the garment, pick up and knit 11 sts from the left sleeve, pick up and knit 55 sts from the garment back, pick up and knit 11 sts from the right sleeve, pick up and knit 14 sts from the right front of the garment. (132 sts)
(To pick up and knit for the front and back, first pick up the sts by sliding, for example, a size 3 circular needle through the back/WS loops of the sts to be picked up, count the loops to make sure it's the correct number, then knit the loops off of the smaller needle untwisted. To pick up and knit for the underarm, identify the sts that were cast on, then use a crochet hook to pull the yarn from the WS to the RS through the tops of the sts.)
*k1, m1p, k2* around (176 sts)
(To m1p, I did *k1, yo, k2* in this round and then *k1, p the yo twisted, k2* in the next. Then:)
*k1, p1, k2* around (176 sts)
Continue this k3p1 ribbing until garment is desired length.
Change colors as desired, making changes under right armhole.
Rnds 1 – 14 in Dark Sage
Rnds 15 – 21 in Espresso
Rnds 22 – 32 in Claret
Rest in Espresso (for me, to 78th rnd, but I'm short)
Bind off. (I used a single bind off, knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts.)
edited to re-add pictures to directions
Thursday, January 11, 2007
The sleeves are pretty straighforward except for the smocking, especially the smocking over 2 needles. I like 2 circs better than Magic Loop or dpn's. To smock over 2 needles, put the needle points of the 2 needles together, pointing the same direction, and draw the yarn through as if there were just one needle. I used longer circs and so left a "Magic loop" between the sts that had been worked and the sts that are now to be worked. Then finish off the sts with the first circular. Use the second circ to work the rest of the sts that were smocked, being careful to keep the horizontal yarn on the correct sides. The first pic is placing the needle between sts in order to draw it through. The second is putting this yarn onto the circ, and the third is starting to knit the yarn and st together.
Now, to continue the pattern from the previous post:
Starting at the middle of the 18 sts that were cast on, pick up and knit 9 sts. Return the last st knitted to the left-hand needle. Pass the next st (This st was put on scrap.) over the st. Slip the st back to the right-hand needle. K68. Slip the next st (This st was put on scrap.). Pick up and knit 1 st. Pass slipped st over. Pick up and knit 8 sts. (end of rnd, 86 sts on needle)
Rounds 1-7: K around
Round 7: K around to third to last st, ssk, k1
Round 8: K1, k2tog, k around
Repeat rounds 1-8 until the sleeve comes to the elbow (about 50% of total usual sleeve length). This gives a bit of room around the elbow. Though, if desired, the full length sleeve can be worn pushed up to ¾ length with sort of a puffy sleeve for the top. (I worked it to the 52nd rnd, but then I have short arms.) Then:
Do smocking pattern – except decrease 2 sts about every 8th rnd, as follows, ending on Rnd 2 or 6. Then bind off as for the main part of the garment:
(Note: I started with the pattern for a rnd 1 of 74 sts = 2 mod 8 sts = 2 plus a multiple of 8 sts)
Smock over 6:Insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st onleft needle
Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 0 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 6 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5: *P1, k2, p1* around.
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6, k1, p2, k2 , p1* around.
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog, p1, *p1, k2, p1* around, p1, ssk, p1
Rnd 7: P1, k1, *p2, k2* around, p2, k1, p1
Rnd 8: *P1, k2 (first repeat, k1), p2, smock over 6 (last repeat, smock over 4), k1 (last repeat, no k1), p1* around. (For the last repeat, the 4th and 5th sts on the left needle are beyond the end of the round.).
Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 6 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 4 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:: P1, k1, *p2, k2* around, p2, k1, p1
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6 (first and last repeats, smock over 5), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2, k2 (last repeat, k1), p1* around.
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog, *p1, k2, p1* around, ssk, p1
Rnd 7: P1, k1, *P1, k2, p1* around, k1, p1.
Rnd 8: *P1, k2 (first repeat, k1), p2 (first repeat, p1), smock over 6 (last repeat, smock over 4), k1 (last repeat, no k1), p1* around.
Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 4 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 2 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:: P1, k1, *P1, k2, p1* around, k1, p1.
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6 (first repeat, smock over 4), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2 (first and last repeats, p1), k2 (last repeat, k1), p1* around.
(Alternate Rnd 4: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, *p1, smock over 6, k1, p2, k2, p1* around, p1, smock over 10, k1, p1, k1, p1.)
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog,*k2, p2* around, k2, ssk, p1
Rnds 7, 9,10, 11: P1, k1, *k2, p2* around, k3, p1.
Rnd 8: *P1, smock over 6 (first and last repeats, smock over 7), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2, k2 (last repeat, k3), p1* around.
Rnd 12: *P1, k2 (first repeat, k3), p2, smock over 6 (last repeat, smock over 8) , k1 (last repeat, k2), p1* around.
Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 2 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 0 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:: P1, k1, *k2, p2* around, k3, p1.
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6 (first and last repeats, smock over 7), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2, k2 (last repeat, k3), p1* around.
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog, *k1, p2, k1* around, ssk, p1
Rnd 7: *P1, k2, p1* around.
Rnd 8: *P1, k2, p2, smock over 6, k1, p1* around.