Summer Square boatneck raglan

This is a summery extra-short sleeve raglan. The directions are for a medium size and worsted weight yarn (with a gauge of 4 sts per inch) and size 7 needles. Size 5 needles are used for the sleeve finishing. I used 7 skeins of shine worsted yarn (525 yds). Most people would need 8 skeins.

It can be made larger/smaller by either doing more/fewer increase rows in the raglan shaping section or casting on more/fewer sts. (If casting on more/fewer sts, try to leave the neckband ratio similar. In this pattern, there are 33 sts for the front/back panel and 11 sts for each sleeve -- a ratio of 3 to 1. So, one could decrease to 27 and 9 -- again a ratio of 3 to 1 and again both odd numbers. One could also increase to 39 and 13.)

It's not necessary to work the pattern. I added it because I thought I'd get bored doing straight stockinette for the rest of the pullover. A blog entry on the pattern is here. It includes a variation of the chart made before I realized that charts are read from the bottom right corner up and across. It also includes a discussion on the best way to join yarn for a slippery cotton blend.

Neckband:
CO 92. Join.
Work *p1, k1* around for 6 rounds, starting w the p1.
*p1, k11, p1, k33* twice
p92

Upper Body:
R1: *P1, k1, m1, knit to 1 st before next purl, m1, k1* four times.
R2: Knit the knit sts and the m1's, purl the 4 purl sts

Alternate these rnds to 34 increase rnds total and 228 sts total. Then do just R2 until 45 total rnds for me (51 for most people) not including the ribbing – or until the sweater lies 1” below the underarm. Then: p1, *k3, p3* around, k3, p2 (R1 of both the sleeve and garment pattern).

Lower Body:
*K1, put the next 47 sts on a spare circ, co9, k67* twice (152 sts total). This is R2 of garment and garment underarm patts. (The 47 sts to be put aside are the sleeve sts.)

The pattern chart doesn't show up well here. Another version is here. Click on the chart to see a close-up. A picture of the sweater is at that link and as the second sweater in the link here.

Continue w R3 of garment and garment underarm patts. (Every even rnd is knit around.)

After the patt rnds, continue shaping by decreasing 4 sts every 10th row above the waist and increasing every 5th row below to end with 152 sts at desired length.

Lower Garment Ribbing:
set-up round: *(k1, p1) twice, k1, p2tog, (k1, p1) twice* around, ending either w (k1, p1) or (k1, p2tog)
*k1, p1* around for 14 rnds.
Bind off.

Sleeves:
Use a needle 1 or 2 sizes smaller than for the rest of the garment. Starting with the middle stitch, knit 4 sts from the underarm cast-on sts, knit the last cast-on st together with the nearest sleeve st, knit to the last of the sleeve sts, knit that together w the nearest cast on stitch, and then knit 3 sts to reach the middle again. (54 sts) (This is R2 of the sleeve pattern.) Continue with R3 of the sleeve patt. (Every even rnd is knit around.)

Bind off.

Tags: raglan, boatneck, pullover

K3P2 Boatneck Pullover

This is a favorite pattern. The idea came originally from knitty.com's Bob. The version I made (in the May 2004 archives of this journal) is the first sweater I made that my oldest complimented me on as being stylish. That one was knitted from the top down and in the round, just as this one is.

I've learned a lot of new techniques since then. So, the pattern for this sweater is slightly different from the one I used back then. It's so much different that I decided to write it down here.
The yarn I used is Patons Classic Merino New Denim -- which was a pleasure to work with and a pleasure to wear. I used size 7 circulars and had a gauge of 4 sts and 6 rows per inch.

Neck:
CO 70. Join to work in the round.
K1, *p2, k3* 13 times, p2, k2 for 10 rounds.
Place marker after 2nd, 7th, 37th, and 42nd sts. (Each marker will be between 2 purl sts. These markers mark the centers of the raglan seams.)

Upper garment:
The raglan seams are k1, p1, (marker), p1, k1. Increases are made outside of the raglan seams on increase rounds, as follows: On increase rounds, work: m1, k1, p1, (marker), p1, k1, m1 with the m1's made to continue the p2, k3 pattern on the sleeves and garment. On the first increase round, each m1 is m1 knit. On the next two increase rounds, each m1 is m1 purl. For the next three increase rounds, it's m1 knit. ....

For a wider neckline:

Neck:
CO 80. Join to work in the round.
K2, *p2, k3* 15 times, p2, k1 for 10 rounds.
Place marker after 3rd, 13th, 43rd, and 53rd sts. (Each marker will be between 2 purl sts. These markers mark the centers of the raglan seams.)

Upper garment:
The raglan seams are k2, p1, (marker), p1, k2. Increases are made outside of the raglan seams on increase rounds, as follows: On increase rounds, work: m1, k2, p1, (marker), p1, k2, m1 with the m1's made to continue the p2, k3 pattern on the sleeves and garment. On the first two increase rounds, each m1 is m1 knit. On the next two increase rounds, each m1 is m1 purl. For the next three increase rounds, it's m1 knit.....

Alternate increase rounds with non-increase rounds to get a total of 20 increase rounds. Then k3p2 around in pattern until garment top is desired length. End with k3 before the first p2 (the center of the first raglan seam).

Lower garment:
Cast on 12 sts. Put the (purl) stitch before the first marker, plus the stitches between the first and second marker, plus the (purl) stitch after the second marker on a spare circular needle or scarp yarn. Work in pattern to one stitch before the third marker. Cast on 12 sts. Put the (purl) stitch before the third marker, plus the stitches between the third and fourth marker, plus the (purl) stitch after the fourth marker on a spare circular needle or scarp yarn. Work in pattern around. (150 sts on main circular needle.)

Work k3p2 ribbing for 14 rounds. On 15th round p2tog two p2 sts under each underarm
Start working in stockinette, doing double decreases under each underarm every tenth round until reaching natural waist. (My natural waist falls at 50th round and so I did a total of 4 double decreases.) Work evenly for about an inch. Make double increases under each underarm every fifth round until reaching the original number of stitches.
Work k1p1 ribbing for 6 rnds. Bind off (w decrease bind off)

Sleeves:
Starting with the center underarm, pick up and knit/purl in pattern until reaching the sts on the spare circ or scrap yarn. Pass the first two of these sts over the last st worked. Work in pattern to the last two sts in scrap. Slip these sts (to be passed over the next st worked). Pick up and knit/purl in pattern the rest of the underarm cast on sts – passing the two slipped sts over the first of these worked underarm sts. Work in pattern until sleeve is desired length (for a short sleeve, 20-30 rnds). (If I were to make this into a long-sleeve or ¾ sleeve pullover, I would work the ribbing until just above the elbow, then decrease evenly around by about 10%, then work in stockinette decreasing every inch or inch and a half, and finally work a p1k1 ribbing at the cuff – in order to match the sleeves more or less to the body of the sweater.) Bind off (w decrease bind off).

sleeve for Dec 2006 raglan

First, some instructions and pictures on smocking in the round on 2 circular needles:

The sleeves are pretty straighforward except for the smocking, especially the smocking over 2 needles. I like 2 circs better than Magic Loop or dpn's. To smock over 2 needles, put the needle points of the 2 needles together, pointing the same direction, and draw the yarn through as if there were just one needle. I used longer circs and so left a "Magic loop" between the sts that had been worked and the sts that are now to be worked. Then finish off the sts with the first circular. Use the second circ to work the rest of the sts that were smocked, being careful to keep the horizontal yarn on the correct sides. The first pic is placing the needle between sts in order to draw it through. The second is putting this yarn onto the circ, and the third is starting to knit the yarn and st together.

Now, to continue the pattern from the previous post:

Sleeves:
Starting at the middle of the 18 sts that were cast on, pick up and knit 9 sts. Return the last st knitted to the left-hand needle. Pass the next st (This st was put on scrap.) over the st. Slip the st back to the right-hand needle. K68. Slip the next st (This st was put on scrap.). Pick up and knit 1 st. Pass slipped st over. Pick up and knit 8 sts. (end of rnd, 86 sts on needle)
Rounds 1-7: K around
Round 7: K around to third to last st, ssk, k1
Round 8: K1, k2tog, k around

Repeat rounds 1-8 until the sleeve comes to the elbow (about 50% of total usual sleeve length). This gives a bit of room around the elbow. Though, if desired, the full length sleeve can be worn pushed up to ¾ length with sort of a puffy sleeve for the top. (I worked it to the 52nd rnd, but then I have short arms.) Then:

Do smocking pattern – except decrease 2 sts about every 8th rnd, as follows, ending on Rnd 2 or 6. Then bind off as for the main part of the garment:
(Note: I started with the pattern for a rnd 1 of 74 sts = 2 mod 8 sts = 2 plus a multiple of 8 sts)

Smock over 6:Insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st onleft needle

Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 0 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 6 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5: *P1, k2, p1* around.
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6, k1, p2, k2 , p1* around.
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog, p1, *p1, k2, p1* around, p1, ssk, p1
Rnd 7: P1, k1, *p2, k2* around, p2, k1, p1
Rnd 8: *P1, k2 (first repeat, k1), p2, smock over 6 (last repeat, smock over 4), k1 (last repeat, no k1), p1* around. (For the last repeat, the 4th and 5th sts on the left needle are beyond the end of the round.).

Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 6 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 4 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:: P1, k1, *p2, k2* around, p2, k1, p1
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6 (first and last repeats, smock over 5), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2, k2 (last repeat, k1), p1* around.
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog, *p1, k2, p1* around, ssk, p1
Rnd 7: P1, k1, *P1, k2, p1* around, k1, p1.
Rnd 8: *P1, k2 (first repeat, k1), p2 (first repeat, p1), smock over 6 (last repeat, smock over 4), k1 (last repeat, no k1), p1* around.

Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 4 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 2 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:: P1, k1, *P1, k2, p1* around, k1, p1.
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6 (first repeat, smock over 4), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2 (first and last repeats, p1), k2 (last repeat, k1), p1* around.
(Alternate Rnd 4: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, *p1, smock over 6, k1, p2, k2, p1* around, p1, smock over 10, k1, p1, k1, p1.)
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog,*k2, p2* around, k2, ssk, p1
Rnds 7, 9,10, 11: P1, k1, *k2, p2* around, k3, p1.
Rnd 8: *P1, smock over 6 (first and last repeats, smock over 7), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2, k2 (last repeat, k3), p1* around.
Rnd 12: *P1, k2 (first repeat, k3), p2, smock over 6 (last repeat, smock over 8) , k1 (last repeat, k2), p1* around.

Smocking Pattern (When rnd 1 is 2 mod 8 sts -- and rnd 8 is 0 mod 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5:: P1, k1, *k2, p2* around, k3, p1.
Rnd 4: *P1, smock over 6 (first and last repeats, smock over 7), k1 (first repeat, no k1), p2, k2 (last repeat, k3), p1* around.
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog, *k1, p2, k1* around, ssk, p1
Rnd 7: *P1, k2, p1* around.
Rnd 8: *P1, k2, p2, smock over 6, k1, p1* around.

Top-down Crew-Neck Pullover

Top-down Crew-Neck Pullover
This is a slightly wider neck raglan with a crew neck knitted from the top down and in the round with size 3 needles. The neckline is done in garter stitch. The lower half of the pullover plus the sleeves below the elbow is from the Smock pullover pattern in Knitty.com.

Notes:
My gauge for Mystic Inca yarn (after washing) is 6 sts and 8 rows per inch w size 3 needles.
The raglan seams are 3 sts wide and consist of k3 on the RS -- p3 on the WS. Excluding the raglan seams, each sleeve initially consists of 10 sts, and the back 44 sts. There are initially 10 more sts to the front than the back. This difference disappears as yo's are made to the back but not the front.
The first line, in effect, says to knit the left sleeve, the left-back seam, the back, the right-back seam, and the right sleeve and then to wrap the yarn around 1 st of the front-right seam and then to turn the work. The second line says to purl all the sts knit in the previous row, making increases next to the raglan seams, and then wrap the yarn around 1 st of the front-left seam, before turning the work. In subsequent rows, previously wrapped sts are also knit or purled at the end of a row before wrapping the next stitch and turning. Stitches from the front seams and the garment front are picked up one or more sts at a time until the front neckline is low enough.
The yo increases should be knitted twisted in the next, RS, row or round. The direction of the yo is important, as well. It should be: \ seam / , when looking at the top of the needle from the RS. It will look like: / seam \ , when looking at the top of the needle from the WS.
For worsted weight with 4 sts and 6 rows per inch, cast on 86. Allot 3 sts per seam, 4 per sleeve, 28 for the back, 38 for the front. Co 10 at each underarm to give a garment circumference of 160 sts. The first row of the sleeve then has 56 sts in total.

Neckline:
CO 130, join
k one rnd, p one rnd 7 times.

Upper garment:
k70, w&t.
yo, p10, yo, p3, yo, p44, yo, p3, yo, p10, yo, w&t
k77, w&t. (The change in the sts knit comes from the yo's and the w&t's.)
p1, yo, p12, yo, p3, yo, p46, yo, p3, yo, p12, yo, p1, w&t
k85, w&t
p2, yo, p14, yo, p3, yo, p48, yo, p3, yo, p14, yo, p2, w&t
k93, w&t
p3, yo, p16, yo, p3, yo, p50, yo, p3, yo, p16, yo, p3, w&t
(front raglan seams now fully formed)

k101, w&t
p4, yo, p18, yo, p3, yo, p52, yo, p3, yo, p18, yo, p4, w&t
(number of st in back now equal to front)

k109, w&t
p2, yo, p3, yo, p20, yo, p3, yo, p54, yo, p3, yo, p20, yo, p3, yo, p2, w&t
k119, w&t
p4, yo, p3, yo, p22, yo, p3, yo, p56, yo, p3, yo, p22, yo, p3, yo, p4, w&t
k129, w&t

Continue in this manner until there are only 24-30 sts (4-5" worth of sts -- I chose 26 sts) left in front that haven't been worked -- in which case do not w&t on the last RS row. Instead start knitting in the round, as follows:

Note: When coming to the wrapped st that hasn't been worked yet, pick the wrap up and knit it with the adjacent/preceding st instead of the st it was wrapped around.

Rnd 1: *k to next "k3 seam", yo, k3, yo, k to next "k3 seam", yo, k3, yo* twice
Rnd 2: k around

Alternate Rnd's 1 and 2 until there are 58 sleeve sts (excluding the seam).
Then do Rnd 2 thrice followed by Rnd 1 until there are 66 sleeve sts.
Then do only Rnd 2 until top of garment is desired length. Then

*k to next "k3 seam", k1, co18, put next 70 sts on a spare circ needle or yarn (for the sleeve)* twice, k to 1 st before middle of left underarm. This (the left side) is now where rnds start and end. (240 total sts for garment)

Lower garment:
K around for 8 rnds (about 1").
Start smocking pattern, working the pattern on the RS and in the round (The original pattern is worked flat.):

Smocking Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, & 7: *P2, k2* 60 times.
Rnd 4: *P2, smock (--insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st on left needle), k1, p2, k2* 30 times.
Rnd 8: *P2, k2, p2, smock (--insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st on left needle), k1* 30 times. (For the last repeat, the 6th and 7th sts on the left needle are beyond the end of the round.).

End with Rnd 2 or 6. Bind off loosely (single bind off, purl p sts, knit k sts).

Sleeves:
The directions for the sleeves are too complicated and lengthy to be added in this post. Instead, they are in my next post:

http://carol-myknittingpage.blogspot.com/2007/01/sleeve-for-dec-2006-raglan.html

tweed-stitch v-neck

I've frogged my DHs languishing sweater to the neck ribbing and am now working it in tweed stitch. Here are the first few rows -- because I'm surprised at how well it's working out. Photo added 8/21/06 is of my DS modeling the sweater. (I'm planning on giving my DH the sweater for Christmas -- though the original sweater I had planned to have ready for his birthday a couple of years ago.)

Note: s1 is slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front.

CO 90 sts (= 7 + 33 + 7 + 43). Place markers after 7th, 40th, 47th, 67th, 71st, and 90th sts.

Ribbing:
R1: *p1, k1* in patt to 4th marker,starting w p1, (m), k1, p1, k1, (m), *p1, k1* in patt to end ofround, ending w k1
R2: *p1, k1* in patt to 4th marker, m1,(m), k1, p1, k1, (m), m1, *p1, k1* in patt to end
Repeat R1-R2 for 6 rows total. (96 ststotal)
Knit around, except purl 1st, 7th,41st, and 47th sts. Purl around.

Body:
Put the 49 sts between the 3rd and last markers in scrap. Stitches will be removed from scrap one at a timeby a wrap and turn.
R1: (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1, m1,k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1,m1, k1, p1, (m), w&t
R2: (m), p9, (m), p35, (m), p9, (m),p1, w&t
R3: k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1,k1, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, k1, s1, k1, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, w&t
R4: p1, (m), p11, (m), p37, (m), p11,(m), p2, w&t
R5: k2, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1,m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, *k1,s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k2, w&t
R6: p2, (m), p13, (m), p39, (m), p13,(m), p3, w&t
R7: k1, s1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1,k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, s1, k1, w&t
R8: p3, (m), p15, (m), p41, (m), p15,(m), p4, w&t
R9: k1, s1, k2, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1,k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k2, s1, k1, w&t
R10: p4, (m), p17, (m), p43, (m), p17,(m), p5, w&t

--- Now change to m1 on the front partof the sweater,as well.
R11: k1, s1, k1, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1,k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m),p1, k1, m1, s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, s1, k1, s1, k1,w&t

--- One or more of subsequent odd rows ends with s1, k2tog (last st plus 1 st from scrap), w&t,
and one or more subsequent even rows ends with sl, p2tog (last st plus 1 st from scrap). w&t,
in order to get the same number of sts in front and in back.

Further: (added 8/1/06) For a gauge of 4 sts per inch with the garment 192 sts (48") around and the underarm seam 13 sts long, makeraglan increases until the back is 83 sts wide.
Also, at the point when the bottom of the v consists of only one unwrapped stitch, end with sl, k1, s1 (at the bottom of the v), placemarker, then start a new (RS) round by knitting around (except for the raglan seams). All work will be done in the round from then onwith new rounds starting at the marker (one stitch past the center front).

The sleeves: (added 8/20/06) (note: The last sleeve row/round was a s1k1 one.) Identify the 13(or whatever number used of) cast on stitches (I now use abackward loop cast on). Then starting with the middle stitch,knit 6 sts from the cast on, knit the last cast on st togetherwith the nearest sleeve st, knit to the last of the sleeve sts,knit that together w the nearest cast on stitch, and then knit 5sts to reach the middle again. Then to start the new round (which for my convenience I call sleeve round 1), look at the sleeve ststo see whether to start w a knit or slip stitch and then work the *k1, s1* or *s1, k1* pattern around. (There are an even number of sts on the sleeve.) For the second k2tog, skp (slip 1, knit 1,pass slipped st over). For the first k2tog, do the opposite(kbps? - knit 1, slip this st back to the left-hand needle, pass next st over the slipped-back st, slip the slipped-back st to the right hand needle). Because I like tapered sleeves, I decreased 2 sts every 10th round (a knit row) by k1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts of the round, ssk. (With this set of decreases, every round ending in 1, 5, and 9 was the same;every round ending in 3 and 7 was the same.) Then when the sleeve is long enough, end w a knit round. Then I did the same thing I did for the bottom of the sweater. First knit around with decreases to get to the correct number for the ribbing. Purl around . Knit around starting the first stitch with a jogless jog to keep the purl jogless. Knit around. Then do the ribbing. (edited 10/18/06 to use backwards loop cast on instead of provisional cast on -- since the chain st provisional cast on gives either one more or one fewer st when picked up)

v-neck

Here are the directions I made up for doing a v-neck raglan sweater.

For a sweater for me, I cast on 56 sts (front:27, each side: 6, back: 17). For my DH, I cast on 64 sts (front:29, each side: 13, back: 19). I put markers where the sides meetthe front/back. The center panel on the sweater in the picture isthe Trinity stitch. (It's known by a few other names aswell.) Because it's based on an even number of stitches, I neededto k2tog at the bottom of the V. I also should have started it alittle higher on the sweater.

Ribbing R 1: Work ribbing around starting at the left-front marker. – EXCEPT when reaching the stitch before the center front:k1, (marker), p1, (marker), k1. Continue the ribbing as a reflection of the pattern just before. Place markers also where front or back and sleeves meet (4 markers). [The p1 is the center front stitch.]

Ribbing R 2: Work ribbingaround. Inc1, k1, (marker), p1, (marker),k1, inc1. Work ribbing around.

Repeat Ribbing R’s 1- 2 for a total of 4 rounds (or more, if desired). Then, knit around,except purl any purl sts next to a marker. Purl around to keepribbing from curling out. Increase on even rounds as in Ribbing R 2. (End of ribbing)

Then: Designate the front garment section asscrap, but do not take off the needle. Starting at the left-front marker:

R’s 1- 10: Work pattern around on stitches not in scrap. End with Ending-A. On odd rows (right sides) only, make raglan increases to garment back and sleeves but not to garment front (for total of 6 increases per round).

Ending-A: Knit (or purl) laststitch and then knit (or purl) one stitch from scrap. Wrap and turn.

R’s 11 - 12: Workpattern around. Make raglan increases on odd rows (right sides) oras appropriate. (There are 8 increases – 4 pairs – in each oddrow.) End with the Ending-N. (Note: The number ofstitches between the last stitch and the nearer center marker is nowa multiple of 3.)

Ending- N: Knit (or purl) last two stitches together. Knit (or purl) together two stitches from scrap. Wrap and turn.

R’s 13 - 14: Work pattern around. Make raglan increases on odd rows (right sides). End with the Ending-A.

Repeat R’s 11 - 14, until there are the same number of stitches in front as in back. Then repeat R’s 13 – 14 until there are 1 to 3 stitch(es) left in scrap. Work pattern around.

Raglan seam thoughts

Here are some thoughts about the shape and structure of a raglan seam.

The raglan seam itself can be as simple or as complicated as one likes. It can be as simple as a single knit stitch or as elaborate as a cable pattern (p2cable4p2) -- as I saw on an episode of Buffy, the Vampire Slayer -- or a k1p2k1 pattern as in some of the sweaters I've posted directions for.

I like to be able to easily match up patterns on the sleeve with patterns on the front of a sweater, and I've also discovered a way to keep there from being holes near the bottom of the armhole -- which involves hiding 1 or 2 stitches from the raglan seam. For a raglan seam with an odd number of stitches (as in the boat-neck sweater pattern in this blog), allocate the central stitch to the sleeves. For a raglan seam with an even number of stitches(as in the ribbed sweater with turtleneck option pattern in this blog), allocate the central two stitches to the sleeves, and then just before the underarm seam k or p tog to give a single central stitch. The central stitch will disappear when the sleeve is added.

Increases are made on both sides of the seam (paired increases). In general, increase on every odd row until 3 rounds of increases are left. Increase every fourth row after that. Finally, knit without increasing until reaching desired number of "rows above underarm seam".

To match designs on the sleeve and garment body, keep this in mind. With S the number of sleeve stitches at the neck and B the back and x the extra raglan stitches belonging to the sleeve (2 or 4), if two sleeve stitches have z stitches between them, the corresponding front (or back) stitches have z + B – S + x stitches between them.

Simple Crew-Neck Short-Sleeve Pullover

Simple Crew-Neck Pullover -- knitted in the round from the top down. Directions are for worsted (4-ply) yarn and size 7 needles (gauge: 4 st/inch, 6 rows/inch). Changes for doubleknit (2-ply) yarn are in brackets. (size 5 needles, gauge: 5.5 st/inch, 7.5 rows/inch) This gives a sweater for a 14" neck and 38-40" around. The raglan seam is 5 stitches wide: k2, p1, k2, with the purl stitch belonging to the sleeve.

Neck ribbing: Using a 16" or 24" circular needle, cast on 72 [92] stitches, using chain cast on. Join by purling into the first stitch cast on. Work patt (k1p1) around for 4 [6] rows. On last row, put markers before 1st [1st], after 9th [11th], after 32nd [42nd], and after 41st [53 th] stitch. Check that the ribbing is not twisted. Then do p1, k7 [k9], p1, (marker), k23 [k31], (marker), p1, k7 [k9], p1, (marker), and k31 [k39]. Then purl around twice. Stop at the first marker.

Upper garment. For "m1" use invisible lifted increase (http://www.wonderful-things.com/newknit4a.htm) or any other increase. For "patt", k on right side of garment and p on wrong side.

R1: (right side) (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R2: (wrong side) p1, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R3: (right side) k1, (marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (marker), k3, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R4: (wrong side) p2, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p3, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R5: (right side) k2, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k4, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R6: (wrong side) p3, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p4, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R7: (right side) k3, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k5, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R8: (wrong side) p4, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p5, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

(The number of front garment stitches should equal the number of back garment, i.e.: 31 [39].)

Stitches (in the front garment) that have not been picked up are referred to as scrap.

R9: (right side) patt, m1, k2, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, m1, patt, k one stitch from scrap, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R10: (wrong side) patt, p2, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, patt, p one stitch from scrap, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

Repeat R’s 9-10 until there are only 11 [15] stitches left in scrap.

R9a: (right side) patt, m1, k2, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, m1, patt

R9b: (right side) patt, k2, (first marker), p1, k2, patt , k2, p1, (second marker), k2, patt, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, patt, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, patt

Then alternate R 9a with R 9b until there are 63 [83] st on the back (and front) and 49 [63] on each sleeve

Then do R9a, R9b, R9b, R9b four times -- for 69 [89] st on the back (and front) and 55 [69] on each sleeve.

Then do R9b until the upper body is long enough to reach 2" below the underarm. (Underarm seam should lie 2" below the actual underarm.)

Lower garment: patt to reach the first marker. Slip the stitches between the first and second markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Using single cast on, cast on 7 [15] stitches. Work patt (on the garment back) to next marker. Slip the stitches between the third and fourth markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Cast on 7 [15] stitches. (There are now 152 [208] stitches on the needle.)

Work patt until garment is 2" shy of desired length. Do not switch to a smaller needle. Starting under left armhole, work ribbing (k1p1) for 14 [18] rounds . Bind off.

Sleeves: (There are 55 [69] stitches in scrap.) To start the sleeve: With the garment right side out, slide a double-pointed needle --or a 16" circular needle -- into the garment to the right of the sleeve opening (to keep the needle from slipping). Identify the 7-[15] stitches that were cast on at the bottom of the sleeve opening. (Using a crochet hook,) pull yarn from the nearest scrap stitch through the top of the right most of these stitches and then place the stitch back in scrap. Do the same for the left-most stitch. Pull yarn through the tops of the next 5[13] stitches and slide onto the needle (making sure that the long end of the yarn is behind the needle). (Pull the yarn from back to front through the top of knit stitches, and from front to back for purl stitches.) (There are now 5 [13] stitches on the needle and 53 [67] stitches in scrap.)

Then work patt from the stitches in scrap.

Work patt around for 6 [8] rounds, stopping at the center bottom of the sleeve and decreasing 2 stitches every 3rd round. Work ribbing (k1p1) for 10 [14] rounds. Bind off.

Work the other sleeve the same way. Weave in all loose ends, and the garment is complete.

Short-sleeve boat-neck raglan pullover

This pattern was inspired by http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring03/PATTbob.html. The biggest difference is that the pattern is knitted in the round from the top down. Directions are for worsted (4-ply) yarn and size 7 needles (gauge: 4 st/inch, 6 rows/inch). Changes for doubleknit (2-ply) yarn are in brackets. (size 5 needles, gauge: 5.5 st/inch, 7.5 rows/inch) This gives a sweater for a 14" neck and 40" around.

Neck ribbing: Using a 16" or 24" circular needle, cast on 80 [100] stitches, using chain cast on. Join by working patt into the first 5 stitches cast on. Work patt (k3p2) around for 6 [8] rows. On last row, put markers before 1st [1st], after 8th [13th], after 40th [50th], and after 48th [63rd] stitch. Stop at the fifth stitch before the first marker. Check that the ribbing is not twisted and that there are 80 [100] stitches.

Upper garment. Each round for the upper body ends at the raglan seam stitches just before the first marker. For "m1" use invisible lifted increase (http://www.wonderful-things.com/newknit4a.htm) or any other increase.

R1: m1, k2, p2, (marker separating front and left sleeve), k2, m1, patt(k3p2), m1, k2, (marker separating left sleeve and back), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p2, (marker separating back and right sleeve), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (marker separating right sleeve and front), p2, k2, m1, patt

R2: k3, p2, (marker), k3, patt, k3, (marker), p2, k3, patt, k3, p2, (marker), k3, patt, k3, (marker), p2, k3, patt

Alternate R1 and R2 (ending w R2) until there are 64 [89] st between the markers on the back (and also front). There will be 40 [65] st on each sleeve. Further, around each marker, there will be k4, p2, k4.

Then do R1, R2, R2, R2 twice -- for 68 [93] st on the back (and front) and 44 [69] on each sleeve.

Then do * m1, k2, p2, (marker), k2, p1, patt, p1, k2, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p2, (marker), k2, p1, patt, p1, k2, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt * followed by 3 rounds of R2 for 70 [95] st on the back (and front) and 44 [69] on each sleeve.

Then * m1, k2, p2, (marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1,k2, p2, (marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt followed by 3 rounds of R2 for 72 [97] st on the back (and front) and 44 [69] on each sleeve.

Then do R2 until the upper body is long enough to reach 2" below the underarm. (Underarm seam should lie 2" below the actual underam.)

Lower garment: k2, p2 to reach the first marker. Slip the stitches between the first and second markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Using single cast on, cast on 8 [13] stitches. Purl into next 2 stitches on needle (the first 2 stitches of the back). Work patt (k3p2) to next marker. Slip the stitches between the third and fourth markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Cast on 8 [13] stitches. Purl into next 2 stitches on needle. (There are now 160 [210] stitches on the needle.) Work patt (k3p2) to marker.

Work patt (k3p2) for 14 [18] rounds, stopping under left underam seam. Then k in every stitch until garment is 2" shy of desired length. (For a more form-fitting garment, work patt throughout garment.) Do not switch to a smaller needle. Work patt (k3p2) for 14 [18] rounds . Bind off.

Sleeves: (There are 44 [69] stitches in scrap.) To start the sleeve: With the garment right-side out, slide a double-pointed needle --or a 16" circular needle -- into the garment to the right of the sleeve opening (to keep the needle from slipping). Identify the 8 [13] stitches that were cast on at the bottom of the sleeve opening. (Using a crochet hook,) pull yarn from the nearest scrap stitch through the top of the right-most of these stitches and then place the stitch back in scrap. Do the same for the left-most stitch. Pull yarn through the tops of the next 6 [11] stitches and slide onto the needle (making sure that the long end of the yarn is behind the needle). (Pull the yarn from back to front through the top of knit stitches, and from front to back for purl stitches.) (There are now 6 [11] stitches on the needle and 44 [69] stitches in scrap.)

Then k1, p2, k3, p2 from the stitches in scrap. Work the k3p2 pattern around until there are no stitches in scrap.

Work k3p2 around for 14 [18] rounds. k3p2 to get to the center bottom of the sleeve. Bind off.

Work the other sleeve the same way. Weave in all loose ends, and the garment is complete.