Monday, December 11, 2006

Top-down Crew-Neck Pullover

Top-down Crew-Neck Pullover
This is a slightly wider neck raglan with a crew neck knitted from the top down and in the round with size 3 needles. The neckline is done in garter stitch. The lower half of the pullover plus the sleeves below the elbow is from the Smock pullover pattern in

My gauge for Mystic Inca yarn (after washing) is 6 sts and 8 rows per inch w size 3 needles.
The raglan seams are 3 sts wide and consist of k3 on the RS -- p3 on the WS. Excluding the raglan seams, each sleeve initially consists of 10 sts, and the back 44 sts. There are initially 10 more sts to the front than the back. This difference disappears as yo's are made to the back but not the front.
The first line, in effect, says to knit the left sleeve, the left-back seam, the back, the right-back seam, and the right sleeve and then to wrap the yarn around 1 st of the front-right seam and then to turn the work. The second line says to purl all the sts knit in the previous row, making increases next to the raglan seams, and then wrap the yarn around 1 st of the front-left seam, before turning the work. In subsequent rows, previously wrapped sts are also knit or purled at the end of a row before wrapping the next stitch and turning. Stitches from the front seams and the garment front are picked up one or more sts at a time until the front neckline is low enough.
The yo increases should be knitted twisted in the next, RS, row or round. The direction of the yo is important, as well. It should be: \ seam / , when looking at the top of the needle from the RS. It will look like: / seam \ , when looking at the top of the needle from the WS.

For worsted weight with 4 sts and 6 rows per inch, cast on 86. Allot 3 sts per seam, 4 per sleeve, 28 for the back, 38 for the front. Co 10 at each underarm to give a garment circumference of 160 sts. The first row of the sleeve then has 56 sts in total.

CO 130, join
k one rnd, p one rnd 7 times.

Upper garment:
k70, w&t.
yo, p10, yo, p3, yo, p44, yo, p3, yo, p10, yo, w&t
k77, w&t. (The change in the sts knit comes from the yo's and the w&t's.)
p1, yo, p12, yo, p3, yo, p46, yo, p3, yo, p12, yo, p1, w&t
k85, w&t
p2, yo, p14, yo, p3, yo, p48, yo, p3, yo, p14, yo, p2, w&t
k93, w&t
p3, yo, p16, yo, p3, yo, p50, yo, p3, yo, p16, yo, p3, w&t

(front raglan seams now fully formed)

k101, w&t
p4, yo, p18, yo, p3, yo, p52, yo, p3, yo, p18, yo, p4, w&t
(number of st in back now equal to front)

k109, w&t
p2, yo, p3, yo, p20, yo, p3, yo, p54, yo, p3, yo, p20, yo, p3, yo, p2, w&t
k119, w&t
p4, yo, p3, yo, p22, yo, p3, yo, p56, yo, p3, yo, p22, yo, p3, yo, p4, w&t
k129, w&t

Continue in this manner until there are only 24-30 sts (4-5" worth of sts -- I chose 26 sts) left in front that haven't been worked -- in which case do not w&t on the last RS row. Instead start knitting in the round, as follows:

Note: When coming to the wrapped st that hasn't been worked yet, pick the wrap up and knit it with the adjacent/preceding st instead of the st it was wrapped around.

Rnd 1: *k to next "k3 seam", yo, k3, yo, k to next "k3 seam", yo, k3, yo* twice
Rnd 2: k around

Alternate Rnd's 1 and 2 until there are 58 sleeve sts (excluding the seam).
Then do Rnd 2 thrice followed by Rnd 1 until there are 66 sleeve sts.
Then do only Rnd 2 until top of garment is desired length. Then

*k to next "k3 seam", k1, co18, put next 70 sts on a spare circ needle or yarn (for the sleeve)* twice, k to 1 st before middle of left underarm. This (the left side) is now where rnds start and end. (240 total sts for garment)

Lower garment:
K around for 8 rnds (about 1").
Start smocking pattern, working the pattern on the RS and in the round (The original pattern is worked flat.):

Smocking Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, & 7: *P2, k2* 60 times.
Rnd 4: *P2, smock (--insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st on left needle), k1, p2, k2* 30 times.
Rnd 8: *P2, k2, p2, smock (--insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st on left needle), k1* 30 times. (For the last repeat, the 6th and 7th sts on the left needle are beyond the end of the round.).

End with Rnd 2 or 6. Bind off loosely (single bind off, purl p sts, knit k sts).

The directions for the sleeves are too complicated and lengthy to be added in this post. Instead, they are in my next post:

Friday, October 13, 2006

sock toes and heels

Here are some general ideas on toes and heels. I've found that I like them curved instead of straight. In general, for a toe, my current favorite is to cast on about an inch of sts using the Turkish cast on, then determine the number of increase rounds needed. Do increase rounds every round for the first half of the increase rounds needed. Increase every other round for the rest less two. Then increase every third round twice. Finally, if needed for the top, make increases on top For example:

Wrap yarn around 2 circ needles 9 times. k9 off of top needle. k9 off of bottom needle.
R1: k1, m1, k..., m1, k1 on top needle, k1, m1, k...., m1, k1 on bottom needle.
Repeat R1 to 19 sts on each needle
Alternate R2 (k across) with R1 to a total of 25 sts per needle
Do R2, R2, R1 to a total of 29 sts per needle
Do R2 on top needle and k across on lower needle. (31 sts on top, 29 on bottom)

My favorite heel is the Widdershins heel. It's a toe-up heel-flap heel with no sts to pick up. To make calculations for the heel, determine the number of rows desired for the heel flap (in the example below, 28 rows). Then determine how wide you want the bottom of the heel (in the example below, 23 sts). Finally, decided how wide you want the heel flap (in the example below, 31 sts).

Approximately 4" (for me) before the end of the foot, start making gusset increases as in the Widdershins pattern. For a heel flap of 28 rows and 31 sts wide and a bottom heel 23 sts wide, increase to 51 (= 28 + 23) sts then work this variation of the Widdershins heel on the middle 23 sts. (The middle 23 sts become the heel flap. The 14 sts on either side are the left and right gussets.)
Row 1: k to 2 sts before end of heel sts, inc1, k1, turn
Row 2: s1, p to 2 sts before end of heel sts, inc1, p1, turn
Row 3: s1, k to 3 sts before gap, inc1, k1, turn
Row 4: s1, p to 3 sts before gap, inc1, p1, turn
Rep rows 3 and 4 until there are 29 heel sts (2 fewer than final heel flap size). Then
s1, k to 4 (or 5) sts before gap, inc1, k1, turn
s1, p to 4 (or 5) sts before gap, inc1, p1, turn

(The numbers in red are a change from the original.) Then to make the heel flap:
Row 1: s1, k to last heel st, ssk last heel st and 1 st from left gusset
Row 2: s 1, p to last heel st, p2tog last heel st and 1 st from right gusset

Note: The chart is an old one -- made before I switched from numbering from the top down to from the bottom up.

Saturday, September 9, 2006

Karen's Sugar-Free Diabetes Walk Socks

Karen's Sugar-Free Diabetes Walk Socks  is an easily knit cabled sock from KnittinMom in sportweight yarn for size 3 needles (or thereabouts).  Proceeds from the sale of the pattern will aid in the fight against diabetes.

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

tweed-stitch v-neck

I've frogged my DHs languishing sweater to the neck ribbing and am now working it in tweed stitch. Here are the first few rows -- because I'm surprised at how well it's working out. Photo added 8/21/06 is of my DS modeling the sweater. (I'm planning on giving my DH the sweater for Christmas -- though the original sweater I had planned to have ready for his birthday a couple of years ago.)

Note: s1 is slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front.

CO 90 sts (= 7 + 33 + 7 + 43). Place markers after 7th, 40th, 47th, 67th, 71st, and 90th sts.

R1: *p1, k1* in patt to 4th marker,starting w p1, (m), k1, p1, k1, (m), *p1, k1* in patt to end ofround, ending w k1
R2: *p1, k1* in patt to 4th marker, m1,(m), k1, p1, k1, (m), m1, *p1, k1* in patt to end
Repeat R1-R2 for 6 rows total. (96 ststotal)
Knit around, except purl 1st, 7th,41st, and 47th sts. Purl around.

Put the 49 sts between the 3rd and last markers in scrap. Stitches will be removed from scrap one at a timeby a wrap and turn.
R1: (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1, m1,k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1,m1, k1, p1, (m), w&t
R2: (m), p9, (m), p35, (m), p9, (m),p1, w&t
R3: k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1,k1, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, k1, s1, k1, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, w&t
R4: p1, (m), p11, (m), p37, (m), p11,(m), p2, w&t
R5: k2, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1,m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, *k1,s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k2, w&t
R6: p2, (m), p13, (m), p39, (m), p13,(m), p3, w&t
R7: k1, s1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1,k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, s1, k1, w&t
R8: p3, (m), p15, (m), p41, (m), p15,(m), p4, w&t
R9: k1, s1, k2, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1,k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k2, s1, k1, w&t
R10: p4, (m), p17, (m), p43, (m), p17,(m), p5, w&t

--- Now change to m1 on the front partof the sweater,as well.
R11: k1, s1, k1, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1,k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m),p1, k1, m1, s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, s1, k1, s1, k1,w&t

--- One or more of subsequent odd rows ends with s1, k2tog (last st plus 1 st from scrap), w&t,
and one or more subsequent even rows ends with sl, p2tog (last st plus 1 st from scrap). w&t,
in order to get the same number of sts in front and in back.

Further: (added 8/1/06) For a gauge of 4 sts per inch with the garment 192 sts (48") around and the underarm seam 13 sts long, makeraglan increases until the back is 83 sts wide.
Also, at the point when the bottom of the v consists of only one unwrapped stitch, end with sl, k1, s1 (at the bottom of the v), placemarker, then start a new (RS) round by knitting around (except for the raglan seams). All work will be done in the round from then onwith new rounds starting at the marker (one stitch past the center front).

The sleeves: (added 8/20/06)
(note: The last sleeve row/round was a s1k1 one.) Identify the 13(or whatever number used of) cast on stitches (I now use abackward loop cast on). Then starting with the middle stitch,knit 6 sts from the cast on, knit the last cast on st togetherwith the nearest sleeve st, knit to the last of the sleeve sts,knit that together w the nearest cast on stitch, and then knit 5sts to reach the middle again. Then to start the new round (which for my convenience I call sleeve round 1), look at the sleeve ststo see whether to start w a knit or slip stitch and then work the *k1, s1* or *s1, k1* pattern around. (There are an even number of sts on the sleeve.) For the second k2tog, skp (slip 1, knit 1,pass slipped st over). For the first k2tog, do the opposite(kbps? - knit 1, slip this st back to the left-hand needle, pass next st over the slipped-back st, slip the slipped-back st to the right hand needle). Because I like tapered sleeves, I decreased 2 sts every 10th round (a knit row) by k1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts of the round, ssk. (With this set of decreases, every round ending in 1, 5, and 9 was the same;every round ending in 3 and 7 was the same.) Then when the sleeve is long enough, end w a knit round. Then I did the same thing I did for the bottom of the sweater. First knit around with decreases to get to the correct number for the ribbing. Purl around . Knit around starting the first stitch with a jogless jog to keep the purl jogless. Knit around. Then do the ribbing. (edited 10/18/06 to use backwards loop cast on instead of provisional cast on -- since the chain st provisional cast on gives either one more or one fewer st when picked up)

Monday, July 3, 2006

Wyvern sock

My most recent sock is a toe-up Wyvern sock ( with mix and match toe and heel. It has a closed toe from and and a toe-up heel-flap heel from It's in 100% acrylic Moda Dea yarn and knit with size 3 needles ....and more importantly, I finished off the yarn. By the way, Ididn't work ribbing on the bottom of the sock, but I did work ribbing on the back of the sock from the end of the heel upward. I really like the wider version of the toe-up heel-flap heel.

Saturday, June 17, 2006

a couple or more knitting hints

Some hints that I've learned from
ssk:  slip 1 knitwise, return stitch to left-hand needle, k2tog through back loop
a very loose bind off::  single crochet in stitch, chain 1, repeat for next stitch, etc
to figure out which needle to use:  Double yarn.  The lowest hole in the needle gauge that the doubled yarn will easily fit through is the needle size to use.
easy make 1 (m1):  yo, then in the next row, knit or purl the yo twisted

Friday, May 26, 2006


I actually finished this Hedera sock a couple of weeks ago. It was supposed to be my April socks for the sock-a-month KAL, but now it's my May one. I thought I'd better post this before it became my June socks.Surprisingly, for me, I followed the pattern almost exactly.
The first difference is that I made it knee high. I was hoping that it would stay up, but the yarn isn't springy enough for it to stay up. I didn't do anything special to make it knee high except for repeating the main pattern more times than called for.
When I got past the heel, I was worried about not having enough yarn (and didn't especiallycare for the cushiness of the heel). So I redid it as a plain heel.
Finally,I wanted the main part of the sock to be tighter, and so I did thegusset decreases until there were 21 instead of 29 sts on the sole. (25would have been ok, too.) For the toe, I transferred sts from the topto the sole so that there were the same number of sts on both.
Thesocks are done in Fortissima Colori Disco Socka Color, which is 71%superwash, 26% polyamide, and 3% metalized polyester. It's the firstexpensive sock yarn I've ever used. At least, I consider it expensive.For me, with short legs and narrow feet, it took 2 - 50g balls to makethe socks. To get the colors to match, I did one sock by taking yarnfrom the outside of the ball. I did the other sock on the other ball bytaking yarn from the inside.
If I had it to do over, I would have used smaller needles. (I used size 3 since I hadn't yet bought any size1.) I would have also done the second yo differently. I did both yo's in the pattern by yarning over front to back. If I had it to do over, Iwould have done the second one back to front -- hopefully, to keep the holes approximately the same size.
My other project, other than unpacking boxes and working in the garden, is Tempting II.

Monday, March 13, 2006

Short row socks

I decided to try my hand at short-row toe-up socks. Since I have high arches, a narrow heel, and a flat front to my foot, I made a few changes to the generic pattern for toe-up socks. (The toe and heel are a Sherman sock toe and heel.) The socks are 100% acrylic Moda Dea yarn. Here (edited September 2009) are my alterations to the general directions:

(s1 = slip 1 purlwise unless otherwise noted)

co 22 (using Turkish co -- 22 sts per needle)
Then using only one needle,
turn, p22, turn
Work Sherman sock toe:
s1, k20, turn
s1, p19, turn
s1, k18, turn
...... , end with:
s1, k10, turn -- for a flattish toe (approximately half of 22, the number of sts co)
s1, p8, p enc (s1, pick up st below next st, return both sts to LH needle, p2tog), turn
s1, k8, k enc (s1 knitwise, pick up st below next st, return both sts to LH needle, k2tog tbl), turn
s1, p9, p enc, turn
s1, k10, k enc, turn
....., end with
s1, k18, k enc, s1 (22 sts on needle), do not turn

Start working in the round (using both needles).
Work k44 around (or in pattern) to 3" shy of total foot length. One circ has the 22 sole sts, the other has the 22 top/insole sts.
Work 6 more rounds.
On odd rounds on circ w sole sts, k1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1 -- for a total increase of 6 sts to sole.
Then work short-row heel on these 28 sts:
s1, k26, turn
s1, p25, turn
...., end with
s1, k6, turn (approximately a third of 22, the number of sts co)
s1, p4, p enc, turn
s1, k4, k enc, turn
s1, p5, p enc, turn
s1. k6, k enc, turn
s1, p8, ptog next st w wraps, wrap and turn
...., end with
s1, k24, k enc, turn
s1, p25, p enc, turn
s1, k26, k enc, do not turn
(The last two enc's involve picking up sts from the insole circ.)

Work 10 rounds by knitting around. (Now: 28 sts on sole, 22 sts on top.)
Work 10 round of k2, p2 (or else, k1, p1)
Then: k2, slip 2 with yarn in front for next round (or else, k1, s 1 wyf)
Then: slip 2 with yarn in back, p2 for next round (or else, k1 wyb, p1)
Finally, BO w loose bind off such as crochet bind off.

Sunday, March 5, 2006


Here are the directions I made up for doing a v-neck raglan sweater.

For a sweater for me, I cast on 56 sts (front:27, each side: 6, back: 17). For my DH, I cast on 64 sts (front:29, each side: 13, back: 19). I put markers where the sides meetthe front/back. The center panel on the sweater in the picture isthe Trinity stitch. (It's known by a few other names aswell.) Because it's based on an even number of stitches, I neededto k2tog at the bottom of the V. I also should have started it alittle higher on the sweater.

Ribbing R 1: Work ribbing around starting at the left-front marker. – EXCEPT when reaching the stitch before the center front:k1, (marker), p1, (marker), k1. Continue the ribbing as a reflection of the pattern just before. Place markers also where front or back and sleeves meet (4 markers). [The p1 is the center front stitch.]

Ribbing R 2: Work ribbingaround. Inc1, k1, (marker), p1, (marker),k1, inc1. Work ribbing around.

Repeat Ribbing R’s 1- 2 for a total of 4 rounds (or more, if desired). Then, knit around,except purl any purl sts next to a marker. Purl around to keepribbing from curling out. Increase on even rounds as in Ribbing R 2. (End of ribbing)

Then: Designate the front garment section asscrap, but do not take off the needle. Starting at the left-front marker:

R’s 1- 10: Work pattern around on stitches not in scrap. End with Ending-A. On odd rows (right sides) only, make raglan increases to garment back and sleeves but not to garment front (for total of 6 increases per round).

Ending-A: Knit (or purl) laststitch and then knit (or purl) one stitch from scrap. Wrap and turn.

R’s 11 - 12: Workpattern around. Make raglan increases on odd rows (right sides) oras appropriate. (There are 8 increases – 4 pairs – in each oddrow.) End with the Ending-N. (Note: The number ofstitches between the last stitch and the nearer center marker is nowa multiple of 3.)

Ending- N: Knit (or purl) last two stitches together. Knit (or purl) together two stitches from scrap. Wrap and turn.

R’s 13 - 14: Work pattern around. Make raglan increases on odd rows (right sides). End with the Ending-A.

Repeat R’s 11 - 14, until there are the same number of stitches in front as in back. Then repeat R’s 13 – 14 until there are 1 to 3 stitch(es) left in scrap. Work pattern around.

Monday, February 20, 2006

Jaywalker socks

These are my second pair of socks -- Jaywalkers for my DH. I used Magic Stripes yarn and 2size 3 circular needles. Here's what I did -- again more for my benefit -- than anyone else's:

CO 68 st -- when I cast on 60 sts, itfit my foot well
Ankle: work k2p2 ribbing 14rounds, then:
round 1: k68
round 2: *kfb, k5, k3tog tbl, k5,kfb* 4 times
for 13 repeats of pattern (26 completerounds). Wrap and turn.

Heel: sl, p33, wrap and turn,then
1: *s1, k1* 17 times, turn (34 totalstitches, 34 = 68 / 2)
2: s1, p33, turn
for 16 repeats of pattern (32 completerounds).

Turn heel: s1, k18, (1 + 18 = 68/ 4 + 2), k2tog tbl, k1, turn
s1, p5 (5 = 2*2 + 1), p2tog, p1, turn
s1, k6, k2tog tbl, k1, turn
s1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn
.... end w
s1, p16, p2tog, turn

s1, k8, (place marker), k9 , pick up 17sts along slip st edge, pick up 1 st at corner, k 34 for top, pick up1 st at corner, pick up 17 sts along slip st edge, k9, (marker -- endof round -- at center of sole)
1: k to 3 sts from corner, k2tog tbl,k1, *kfb, k5, k3tog tbl, k5, kfb* 2 times for top, k1, k2tog, k__
2: k to corner, k34 for top, k__
end when 68 sts total.

Sock body:
1. k17 , (corner), *kfb, k5, k3tog tbl,k5,
kfb* 2 times for top, (corner), k17
2. k68
for 48 total (24 pairs of) rounds (to2" from final length), end w round 2.

Shape toe:
k14, k2tog tbl, k1, (corner), k7, k3togtbl, k5, kfb, kfb, k5, k3tog tbl, k7, (corner), k1, k2tog, k14
k around (64sts)
k12, k2tog tbl, k1, (corner), k6, k3togtbl, k5, kfb, kfb, k5, k3tog tbl, k6, (corner), k1, k2tog, k12
k around (60sts)
k10, k2tog tbl, k1, (corner), k5, k3togtbl, k5, kfb, kfb, k5, k3tog tbl, k5, (corner), k1, k2tog, k10
k around (56sts)
Then alternate:
k to last 3 sts, k2tog tbl, k1,(corner), k1, k2tog, k__, k2tog tbl, k1, (corner), k1, k2tog, k__
k around
to 40 sts total, then, for every round,do
k to last 3 sts, k2tog tbl, k1,(corner), k1, k2tog, k__, k2tog tbl, k1, (corner), k1, k2tog, k__
to 16 sts total
work to corner in knit, then bind off

Monday, January 23, 2006

my first pair of socks

This is the first pair of socks I've knitted. People at were talking about how nice hand-knitted socks are, and so I decided to give it a go. I used Magic Stripes yarn and 2size 3 circular needles and a generic sock pattern. Here's what I did -- more for my benefit -- than anyone else's:

CO 52 sts onto one circular needle (what I'll be calling the second needle). Pull a loop (a la magic loop method) between the 26th and 27th sts. Taking another circular (what I'll be calling the first needle), join and work (k2,p2) on this needle, ending w k2 for a total of 26 sts on this needle. Using the"second" needle, work the rest of the round, starting and ending w p2 for a total of 26 sts on the needle. Work (k2p2) pattern for 26 rounds -- knitting the first half of the round with the"first" needle and the second on the other. At the end ofthis round, wrap and turn. The next part (heel) is worked using the "second" needle only.
slip 1, p25, wrap and turn
*slip 1, k25, turn, slip 1, p25, turn* -- repeat for a total of 27 rows, then still using the same needle
slip 1, k13, k2tog tbl, k1, turn -- slip 1, p2, p2tog p1, turn -- slip1, k3, k2tog tbl, k1, turn -- slip 1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn -- etc ending w slip 1, p12, p2tog, (no p1), turn
(Then to shape the gusset): slip 1, k13, (place marker), pick up and knit front loops produced by the slipped stitches (about 14 sts), pick up and knit one stitch from the corner. Using needle 1, work k2p2 pattern across,place marker, pick up and knit one stitch from the corner, pick p and knit front loops produced by the slipped stitches (about 14 sts). -- first round of gusset shaping
next round: needle 2 -- k to 3 sts from end, k2tog tbl, k1. needle 1 -- k2p2 pattern to marker, k1, k2tog, k to end
alternate this round with a round worked according to pattern until there are 20 sts on needle 2 and 32 sts on needle 1. Transfer last 6 sts from needle 1 to needle 2. (Needle 1 has 26 sts ink2p2 pattern. Needle has 26 k sts.)
Work patt until sock is 2" shy of finished length. On odd rounds, k around. On even rounds, end work on needle w k2tog tbl, k1 and start w k1, k2tog (for 4 dec's per round). Continue to 6 sts on each needle. Turn work inside out and bind off sts together.

Monday, January 9, 2006

adding a sleeve to a raglan sweater

 Here are my current thoughts on adding a sleeve to a raglan sweater.  Since I like to knit from the top down, at the time I'm ready to add a sleeve, the body is complete, most of the sleeve stitches are on a spare circular needle, and the rest of the sleeve stitches will be picked up from the stitches cast on at the bottom of the armhole.   The only difference between this and what I've done before is that I've now decided to start working the sleeve at the center of the underarm seam.

To start the sleeve: With the garment right side out, identify the stitches that were cast on at the bottom of the sleeve opening. (Using a crochet hook,) pull yarn from the nearest stitch (on a spare circular needle) through the top of the right-most of these stitches and then place the stitch back on the needle. Do the same for the left-most stitch. (Disregard these two cast on stitches for the following.)  Slide a double-pointed needle --or a 16" circular needle -- into the garment to the right of the sleeve opening (to keep the needle from slipping). Starting with the middle cast-on stitch (or the stitch just to the left of middle), (with a new ball of yarn) pick up and knit (or purl) this stitch and each of the remaining underarm stitches going to the left. (Knit the knit stitches, and purl the purl stitches.)   Work the pattern around the sleeve and then pick up and knit (or purl) the remaining cast on stitches at the bottom of the armhole.  --  finishing round 1 for the sleeve.