tweed-stitch v-neck

I've frogged my DHs languishing sweater to the neck ribbing and am now working it in tweed stitch. Here are the first few rows -- because I'm surprised at how well it's working out. Photo added 8/21/06 is of my DS modeling the sweater. (I'm planning on giving my DH the sweater for Christmas -- though the original sweater I had planned to have ready for his birthday a couple of years ago.)

Note: s1 is slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front.

CO 90 sts (= 7 + 33 + 7 + 43). Place markers after 7th, 40th, 47th, 67th, 71st, and 90th sts.

Ribbing:
R1: *p1, k1* in patt to 4th marker,starting w p1, (m), k1, p1, k1, (m), *p1, k1* in patt to end ofround, ending w k1
R2: *p1, k1* in patt to 4th marker, m1,(m), k1, p1, k1, (m), m1, *p1, k1* in patt to end
Repeat R1-R2 for 6 rows total. (96 ststotal)
Knit around, except purl 1st, 7th,41st, and 47th sts. Purl around.

Body:
Put the 49 sts between the 3rd and last markers in scrap. Stitches will be removed from scrap one at a timeby a wrap and turn.
R1: (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1, m1,k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1,m1, k1, p1, (m), w&t
R2: (m), p9, (m), p35, (m), p9, (m),p1, w&t
R3: k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, k1, s1,k1, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, k1, s1, k1, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, w&t
R4: p1, (m), p11, (m), p37, (m), p11,(m), p2, w&t
R5: k2, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1,m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, s1, *k1,s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k2, w&t
R6: p2, (m), p13, (m), p39, (m), p13,(m), p3, w&t
R7: k1, s1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1,k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, s1, k1, w&t
R8: p3, (m), p15, (m), p41, (m), p15,(m), p4, w&t
R9: k1, s1, k2, (m), p1, k1, m1, *s1,k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1, k1, m1,s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k2, s1, k1, w&t
R10: p4, (m), p17, (m), p43, (m), p17,(m), p5, w&t

--- Now change to m1 on the front partof the sweater,as well.
R11: k1, s1, k1, s1, m1, k1, (m), p1,k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, *s1, k1*, s1, m1, k1, (m),p1, k1, m1, s1, *k1, s1*, m1, k1, p1, (m), k1, m1, s1, k1, s1, k1,w&t

--- One or more of subsequent odd rows ends with s1, k2tog (last st plus 1 st from scrap), w&t,
and one or more subsequent even rows ends with sl, p2tog (last st plus 1 st from scrap). w&t,
in order to get the same number of sts in front and in back.

Further: (added 8/1/06) For a gauge of 4 sts per inch with the garment 192 sts (48") around and the underarm seam 13 sts long, makeraglan increases until the back is 83 sts wide.
Also, at the point when the bottom of the v consists of only one unwrapped stitch, end with sl, k1, s1 (at the bottom of the v), placemarker, then start a new (RS) round by knitting around (except for the raglan seams). All work will be done in the round from then onwith new rounds starting at the marker (one stitch past the center front).

The sleeves: (added 8/20/06) (note: The last sleeve row/round was a s1k1 one.) Identify the 13(or whatever number used of) cast on stitches (I now use abackward loop cast on). Then starting with the middle stitch,knit 6 sts from the cast on, knit the last cast on st togetherwith the nearest sleeve st, knit to the last of the sleeve sts,knit that together w the nearest cast on stitch, and then knit 5sts to reach the middle again. Then to start the new round (which for my convenience I call sleeve round 1), look at the sleeve ststo see whether to start w a knit or slip stitch and then work the *k1, s1* or *s1, k1* pattern around. (There are an even number of sts on the sleeve.) For the second k2tog, skp (slip 1, knit 1,pass slipped st over). For the first k2tog, do the opposite(kbps? - knit 1, slip this st back to the left-hand needle, pass next st over the slipped-back st, slip the slipped-back st to the right hand needle). Because I like tapered sleeves, I decreased 2 sts every 10th round (a knit row) by k1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts of the round, ssk. (With this set of decreases, every round ending in 1, 5, and 9 was the same;every round ending in 3 and 7 was the same.) Then when the sleeve is long enough, end w a knit round. Then I did the same thing I did for the bottom of the sweater. First knit around with decreases to get to the correct number for the ribbing. Purl around . Knit around starting the first stitch with a jogless jog to keep the purl jogless. Knit around. Then do the ribbing. (edited 10/18/06 to use backwards loop cast on instead of provisional cast on -- since the chain st provisional cast on gives either one more or one fewer st when picked up)

Wyvern sock

My most recent sock is a toe-up Wyvern sock (http://marniemaclean.com/patterns/Wyvern/) with mix and match toe and heel. It has a closed toe from http://knottygnome.blogspot.com/2005/11/free-pattern-sporty and http://secure.elann.com/ShowFreePattern.asp?Id=5024 and a toe-up heel-flap heel from http://www.socknitters.com/toe-up/index.htm. It's in 100% acrylic Moda Dea yarn and knit with size 3 needles ....and more importantly, I finished off the yarn. By the way, Ididn't work ribbing on the bottom of the sock, but I did work ribbing on the back of the sock from the end of the heel upward. I really like the wider version of the toe-up heel-flap heel.

a couple or more knitting hints

Some hints that I've learned from knittyboard.com:
ssk:  slip 1 knitwise, return stitch to left-hand needle, k2tog through back loop
a very loose bind off::  single crochet in stitch, chain 1, repeat for next stitch, etc
to figure out which needle to use:  Double yarn.  The lowest hole in the needle gauge that the doubled yarn will easily fit through is the needle size to use.
easy make 1 (m1):  yo, then in the next row, knit or purl the yo twisted

Hedera

I actually finished this Hedera sock a couple of weeks ago. It was supposed to be my April socks for the sock-a-month KAL, but now it's my May one. I thought I'd better post this before it became my June socks.Surprisingly, for me, I followed the pattern almost exactly.
The first difference is that I made it knee high. I was hoping that it would stay up, but the yarn isn't springy enough for it to stay up. I didn't do anything special to make it knee high except for repeating the main pattern more times than called for.
When I got past the heel, I was worried about not having enough yarn (and didn't especiallycare for the cushiness of the heel). So I redid it as a plain heel.
Finally,I wanted the main part of the sock to be tighter, and so I did thegusset decreases until there were 21 instead of 29 sts on the sole. (25would have been ok, too.) For the toe, I transferred sts from the topto the sole so that there were the same number of sts on both.
Thesocks are done in Fortissima Colori Disco Socka Color, which is 71%superwash, 26% polyamide, and 3% metalized polyester. It's the firstexpensive sock yarn I've ever used. At least, I consider it expensive.For me, with short legs and narrow feet, it took 2 - 50g balls to makethe socks. To get the colors to match, I did one sock by taking yarnfrom the outside of the ball. I did the other sock on the other ball bytaking yarn from the inside.
If I had it to do over, I would have used smaller needles. (I used size 3 since I hadn't yet bought any size1.) I would have also done the second yo differently. I did both yo's in the pattern by yarning over front to back. If I had it to do over, Iwould have done the second one back to front -- hopefully, to keep the holes approximately the same size.
My other project, other than unpacking boxes and working in the garden, is Tempting II.

Short row socks

I decided to try my hand at short-row toe-up socks. Since I have high arches, a narrow heel, and a flat front to my foot, I made a few changes to the generic pattern for toe-up socks. (The toe and heel are a Sherman sock toe and heel.) The socks are 100% acrylic Moda Dea yarn. Here (edited September 2009) are my alterations to the general directions:

(s1 = slip 1 purlwise unless otherwise noted)

co 22 (using Turkish co -- 22 sts per needle)
Then using only one needle,
turn, p22, turn
Work Sherman sock toe:
s1, k20, turn
s1, p19, turn
s1, k18, turn
...... , end with:
s1, k10, turn -- for a flattish toe (approximately half of 22, the number of sts co)
s1, p8, p enc (s1, pick up st below next st, return both sts to LH needle, p2tog), turn
Then:
s1, k8, k enc (s1 knitwise, pick up st below next st, return both sts to LH needle, k2tog tbl), turn
s1, p9, p enc, turn
s1, k10, k enc, turn
....., end with
s1, k18, k enc, s1 (22 sts on needle), do not turn

Start working in the round (using both needles).
Work k44 around (or in pattern) to 3" shy of total foot length. One circ has the 22 sole sts, the other has the 22 top/insole sts.
Work 6 more rounds.
On odd rounds on circ w sole sts, k1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1 -- for a total increase of 6 sts to sole.
Then work short-row heel on these 28 sts:
s1, k26, turn
s1, p25, turn
...., end with
s1, k6, turn (approximately a third of 22, the number of sts co)
s1, p4, p enc, turn
Then:
s1, k4, k enc, turn
s1, p5, p enc, turn
s1. k6, k enc, turn
s1, p8, ptog next st w wraps, wrap and turn
...., end with
s1, k24, k enc, turn
s1, p25, p enc, turn
s1, k26, k enc, do not turn
(The last two enc's involve picking up sts from the insole circ.)

Work 10 rounds by knitting around. (Now: 28 sts on sole, 22 sts on top.)
Work 10 round of k2, p2 (or else, k1, p1)
Then: k2, slip 2 with yarn in front for next round (or else, k1, s 1 wyf)
Then: slip 2 with yarn in back, p2 for next round (or else, k1 wyb, p1)
Finally, BO w loose bind off such as crochet bind off.

v-neck

Here are the directions I made up for doing a v-neck raglan sweater.

For a sweater for me, I cast on 56 sts (front:27, each side: 6, back: 17). For my DH, I cast on 64 sts (front:29, each side: 13, back: 19). I put markers where the sides meetthe front/back. The center panel on the sweater in the picture isthe Trinity stitch. (It's known by a few other names aswell.) Because it's based on an even number of stitches, I neededto k2tog at the bottom of the V. I also should have started it alittle higher on the sweater.

Ribbing R 1: Work ribbing around starting at the left-front marker. – EXCEPT when reaching the stitch before the center front:k1, (marker), p1, (marker), k1. Continue the ribbing as a reflection of the pattern just before. Place markers also where front or back and sleeves meet (4 markers). [The p1 is the center front stitch.]

Ribbing R 2: Work ribbingaround. Inc1, k1, (marker), p1, (marker),k1, inc1. Work ribbing around.

Repeat Ribbing R’s 1- 2 for a total of 4 rounds (or more, if desired). Then, knit around,except purl any purl sts next to a marker. Purl around to keepribbing from curling out. Increase on even rounds as in Ribbing R 2. (End of ribbing)

Then: Designate the front garment section asscrap, but do not take off the needle. Starting at the left-front marker:

R’s 1- 10: Work pattern around on stitches not in scrap. End with Ending-A. On odd rows (right sides) only, make raglan increases to garment back and sleeves but not to garment front (for total of 6 increases per round).

Ending-A: Knit (or purl) laststitch and then knit (or purl) one stitch from scrap. Wrap and turn.

R’s 11 - 12: Workpattern around. Make raglan increases on odd rows (right sides) oras appropriate. (There are 8 increases – 4 pairs – in each oddrow.) End with the Ending-N. (Note: The number ofstitches between the last stitch and the nearer center marker is nowa multiple of 3.)

Ending- N: Knit (or purl) last two stitches together. Knit (or purl) together two stitches from scrap. Wrap and turn.

R’s 13 - 14: Work pattern around. Make raglan increases on odd rows (right sides). End with the Ending-A.

Repeat R’s 11 - 14, until there are the same number of stitches in front as in back. Then repeat R’s 13 – 14 until there are 1 to 3 stitch(es) left in scrap. Work pattern around.

Jaywalker socks

These are my second pair of socks -- Jaywalkers for my DH. I used Magic Stripes yarn and 2size 3 circular needles. Here's what I did -- again more for my benefit -- than anyone else's:

CO 68 st -- when I cast on 60 sts, itfit my foot well
Ankle: work k2p2 ribbing 14rounds, then:
round 1: k68
round 2: *kfb, k5, k3tog tbl, k5,kfb* 4 times
for 13 repeats of pattern (26 completerounds). Wrap and turn.
Heel: sl, p33, wrap and turn,then
1: *s1, k1* 17 times, turn (34 totalstitches, 34 = 68 / 2)
2: s1, p33, turn
for 16 repeats of pattern (32 completerounds).
Turn heel: s1, k18, (1 + 18 = 68/ 4 + 2), k2tog tbl, k1, turn
s1, p5 (5 = 2*2 + 1), p2tog, p1, turn
s1, k6, k2tog tbl, k1, turn
s1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn
.... end w
s1, p16, p2tog, turn
Gusset:
s1, k8, (place marker), k9 , pick up 17sts along slip st edge, pick up 1 st at corner, k 34 for top, pick up1 st at corner, pick up 17 sts along slip st edge, k9, (marker -- endof round -- at center of sole)
Then:
1: k to 3 sts from corner, k2tog tbl,k1, *kfb, k5, k3tog tbl, k5, kfb* 2 times for top, k1, k2tog, k__
2: k to corner, k34 for top, k__
end when 68 sts total.
Sock body:
1. k17 , (corner), *kfb, k5, k3tog tbl,k5, kfb* 2 times for top, (corner), k17
2. k68
for 48 total (24 pairs of) rounds (to2" from final length), end w round 2.
Shape toe:
k14, k2tog tbl, k1, (corner), k7, k3togtbl, k5, kfb, kfb, k5, k3tog tbl, k7, (corner), k1, k2tog, k14
k around (64sts)
k12, k2tog tbl, k1, (corner), k6, k3togtbl, k5, kfb, kfb, k5, k3tog tbl, k6, (corner), k1, k2tog, k12
k around (60sts)
k10, k2tog tbl, k1, (corner), k5, k3togtbl, k5, kfb, kfb, k5, k3tog tbl, k5, (corner), k1, k2tog, k10
k around (56sts)
Then alternate:
k to last 3 sts, k2tog tbl, k1,(corner), k1, k2tog, k__, k2tog tbl, k1, (corner), k1, k2tog, k__
k around
to 40 sts total, then, for every round,do
k to last 3 sts, k2tog tbl, k1,(corner), k1, k2tog, k__, k2tog tbl, k1, (corner), k1, k2tog, k__
to 16 sts total
work to corner in knit, then bind off