knit skirt

Finally finished the skirt. It looks nice, but I probably won't wear it around town. I don't want to stand out.
For finishing the hem, I decided against doing the garter stitch and the picot finishing. The checkerboard pattern meant that it wouldn't curl (and so it didn't need the garter stitches)-- and picots aren't my style. So I just finished it by a knit cast off on the knit stitches and a purl one on the purl stitches.

knit skirt

Decided that I didn't like eyelets in a skirt. So decided to make a checkerboard pattern instead for the bottom of the skirt with each square in the checkerboard 4 stitches by 6 rows. To my eye, it looks a lot nicer.
Also, realized that the skirt I'm making is a 4-panel skirt -- with increases taken where the panels meet. On increase rows, if there is no stitch between panels, add a stitch between the panels. If there is a stitch between panels, knit or purl in front and back of that stitch (and divide the two stitches among the adjacent panels). -- I also centered the checkerboard pattern on each of the 4 panels.

knit skirt

I decided I didn't like the waistband or the fit for the skirt. So I started over.

First, to make the waist more substantial: CO a multiple of 4 stitches. Do 6 rnds of *k2,p2*, 1 rnd of p, 2 rnds of *p2,k2*, 1 rnd of *p2tog, yo, k2tog, yo*, 3 rnds of *p2,k2*. Then pick up a loop from each of the CO stitches onto a spare circular needle and ktog 1 st from original needle with 1 loop from spare needle. Finally 1 rnd of p. (There are the same number of stitches on the needle as were originally cast on..) I'm also going to use a knitted cord instead of a crocheted one in the waistband.

Next, to make it roomier (since I'm short). Increase by 8 st evenly around the next rnd -- (All of the top half of the skirt is knit.) Then every 6th row instead of every 7th row make 4 increases. So as not to have all the increases on the sides, I divided the skirt into fourths (with markers to mark the fourths.) On the 6th and 12th rnds, make increases right after the first marker, right before the second, right after the third, and right before the last. On the 18th and 24th rnds, make increases after the 1st st after the first marker, before the 1st st before the second, after the 1st st after the third, and before the 1st st before the last. On the 30th and 36th, after or before the 2nd st, etc.

continued here
continued from here

I'm happy that I accidentally found a knit skirt pattern online (at http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer03/PATTeyelet.html). I've been looking for a skirt pattern off and on for a while. So far it looks nice. I've had to change the numbers because I have a different gauge that the pattern's. I've also decided to knit it in the round -- because I don't like to join seams.

boat neck vs crew

Because of the heighth of the boat neck neck, there should be more rows in the upper garment in the boat neck than in the crew.  Add 1"-2" of rows.

Also because of the k3p2 pattern in the boat neck -- at least with springy yarn and a size 7 needle--, continue adding stitches at the raglan seams until there are 10 stitches extra before starting the lower garment.

Simple Crew-Neck Short-Sleeve Pullover

Simple Crew-Neck Pullover -- knitted in the round from the top down. Directions are for worsted (4-ply) yarn and size 7 needles (gauge: 4 st/inch, 6 rows/inch). Changes for doubleknit (2-ply) yarn are in brackets. (size 5 needles, gauge: 5.5 st/inch, 7.5 rows/inch) This gives a sweater for a 14" neck and 38-40" around. The raglan seam is 5 stitches wide: k2, p1, k2, with the purl stitch belonging to the sleeve.

Neck ribbing: Using a 16" or 24" circular needle, cast on 72 [92] stitches, using chain cast on. Join by purling into the first stitch cast on. Work patt (k1p1) around for 4 [6] rows. On last row, put markers before 1st [1st], after 9th [11th], after 32nd [42nd], and after 41st [53 th] stitch. Check that the ribbing is not twisted. Then do p1, k7 [k9], p1, (marker), k23 [k31], (marker), p1, k7 [k9], p1, (marker), and k31 [k39]. Then purl around twice. Stop at the first marker.

Upper garment. For "m1" use invisible lifted increase (http://www.wonderful-things.com/newknit4a.htm) or any other increase. For "patt", k on right side of garment and p on wrong side.

R1: (right side) (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R2: (wrong side) p1, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R3: (right side) k1, (marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (marker), k3, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R4: (wrong side) p2, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p3, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R5: (right side) k2, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k4, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R6: (wrong side) p3, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p4, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R7: (right side) k3, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k5, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R8: (wrong side) p4, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p5, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

(The number of front garment stitches should equal the number of back garment, i.e.: 31 [39].)

Stitches (in the front garment) that have not been picked up are referred to as scrap.

R9: (right side) patt, m1, k2, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, m1, patt, k one stitch from scrap, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

R10: (wrong side) patt, p2, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, patt, p one stitch from scrap, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction

Repeat R’s 9-10 until there are only 11 [15] stitches left in scrap.

R9a: (right side) patt, m1, k2, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, m1, patt

R9b: (right side) patt, k2, (first marker), p1, k2, patt , k2, p1, (second marker), k2, patt, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, patt, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, patt

Then alternate R 9a with R 9b until there are 63 [83] st on the back (and front) and 49 [63] on each sleeve

Then do R9a, R9b, R9b, R9b four times -- for 69 [89] st on the back (and front) and 55 [69] on each sleeve.

Then do R9b until the upper body is long enough to reach 2" below the underarm. (Underarm seam should lie 2" below the actual underarm.)

Lower garment: patt to reach the first marker. Slip the stitches between the first and second markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Using single cast on, cast on 7 [15] stitches. Work patt (on the garment back) to next marker. Slip the stitches between the third and fourth markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Cast on 7 [15] stitches. (There are now 152 [208] stitches on the needle.)

Work patt until garment is 2" shy of desired length. Do not switch to a smaller needle. Starting under left armhole, work ribbing (k1p1) for 14 [18] rounds . Bind off.

Sleeves: (There are 55 [69] stitches in scrap.) To start the sleeve: With the garment right side out, slide a double-pointed needle --or a 16" circular needle -- into the garment to the right of the sleeve opening (to keep the needle from slipping). Identify the 7-[15] stitches that were cast on at the bottom of the sleeve opening. (Using a crochet hook,) pull yarn from the nearest scrap stitch through the top of the right most of these stitches and then place the stitch back in scrap. Do the same for the left-most stitch. Pull yarn through the tops of the next 5[13] stitches and slide onto the needle (making sure that the long end of the yarn is behind the needle). (Pull the yarn from back to front through the top of knit stitches, and from front to back for purl stitches.) (There are now 5 [13] stitches on the needle and 53 [67] stitches in scrap.)

Then work patt from the stitches in scrap.

Work patt around for 6 [8] rounds, stopping at the center bottom of the sleeve and decreasing 2 stitches every 3rd round. Work ribbing (k1p1) for 10 [14] rounds. Bind off.

Work the other sleeve the same way. Weave in all loose ends, and the garment is complete.

Misc

Misc: Since I don't have any 16"-long circular needles, I use a pair of 29"-long needles to do necklines, etc.  I'll do one round with one needle and the next with the other, etc.  It works surprisingly well -- much better than double-pointed needles.  Plus when I'm half-way done with a round, I can try the garment on without fear of losing stitches.

Short-sleeve boat-neck raglan pullover

This pattern was inspired by http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring03/PATTbob.html. The biggest difference is that the pattern is knitted in the round from the top down. Directions are for worsted (4-ply) yarn and size 7 needles (gauge: 4 st/inch, 6 rows/inch). Changes for doubleknit (2-ply) yarn are in brackets. (size 5 needles, gauge: 5.5 st/inch, 7.5 rows/inch) This gives a sweater for a 14" neck and 40" around.

Neck ribbing: Using a 16" or 24" circular needle, cast on 80 [100] stitches, using chain cast on. Join by working patt into the first 5 stitches cast on. Work patt (k3p2) around for 6 [8] rows. On last row, put markers before 1st [1st], after 8th [13th], after 40th [50th], and after 48th [63rd] stitch. Stop at the fifth stitch before the first marker. Check that the ribbing is not twisted and that there are 80 [100] stitches.

Upper garment. Each round for the upper body ends at the raglan seam stitches just before the first marker. For "m1" use invisible lifted increase (http://www.wonderful-things.com/newknit4a.htm) or any other increase.

R1: m1, k2, p2, (marker separating front and left sleeve), k2, m1, patt(k3p2), m1, k2, (marker separating left sleeve and back), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p2, (marker separating back and right sleeve), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (marker separating right sleeve and front), p2, k2, m1, patt

R2: k3, p2, (marker), k3, patt, k3, (marker), p2, k3, patt, k3, p2, (marker), k3, patt, k3, (marker), p2, k3, patt

Alternate R1 and R2 (ending w R2) until there are 64 [89] st between the markers on the back (and also front). There will be 40 [65] st on each sleeve. Further, around each marker, there will be k4, p2, k4.

Then do R1, R2, R2, R2 twice -- for 68 [93] st on the back (and front) and 44 [69] on each sleeve.

Then do * m1, k2, p2, (marker), k2, p1, patt, p1, k2, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p2, (marker), k2, p1, patt, p1, k2, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt * followed by 3 rounds of R2 for 70 [95] st on the back (and front) and 44 [69] on each sleeve.

Then * m1, k2, p2, (marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1,k2, p2, (marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt followed by 3 rounds of R2 for 72 [97] st on the back (and front) and 44 [69] on each sleeve.

Then do R2 until the upper body is long enough to reach 2" below the underarm. (Underarm seam should lie 2" below the actual underam.)

Lower garment: k2, p2 to reach the first marker. Slip the stitches between the first and second markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Using single cast on, cast on 8 [13] stitches. Purl into next 2 stitches on needle (the first 2 stitches of the back). Work patt (k3p2) to next marker. Slip the stitches between the third and fourth markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Cast on 8 [13] stitches. Purl into next 2 stitches on needle. (There are now 160 [210] stitches on the needle.) Work patt (k3p2) to marker.

Work patt (k3p2) for 14 [18] rounds, stopping under left underam seam. Then k in every stitch until garment is 2" shy of desired length. (For a more form-fitting garment, work patt throughout garment.) Do not switch to a smaller needle. Work patt (k3p2) for 14 [18] rounds . Bind off.

Sleeves: (There are 44 [69] stitches in scrap.) To start the sleeve: With the garment right-side out, slide a double-pointed needle --or a 16" circular needle -- into the garment to the right of the sleeve opening (to keep the needle from slipping). Identify the 8 [13] stitches that were cast on at the bottom of the sleeve opening. (Using a crochet hook,) pull yarn from the nearest scrap stitch through the top of the right-most of these stitches and then place the stitch back in scrap. Do the same for the left-most stitch. Pull yarn through the tops of the next 6 [11] stitches and slide onto the needle (making sure that the long end of the yarn is behind the needle). (Pull the yarn from back to front through the top of knit stitches, and from front to back for purl stitches.) (There are now 6 [11] stitches on the needle and 44 [69] stitches in scrap.)

Then k1, p2, k3, p2 from the stitches in scrap. Work the k3p2 pattern around until there are no stitches in scrap.

Work k3p2 around for 14 [18] rounds. k3p2 to get to the center bottom of the sleeve. Bind off.

Work the other sleeve the same way. Weave in all loose ends, and the garment is complete.

I'm about ready to change the directions for the boatneck pullover. I don't like the way the neck is divided in what I have already.
Of course, the directions as stand work perfectly well. But I always like to change things.
I commented to my daughter than when we cook together, food always turns out better. She said that was because I almost always change recipes as I cook unless she's there to stop me.

Short-sleeve boat-neck raglan pullover - 4

Sleeves:  (There are 54 [74] stitches in scrap.)

To start the sleeve: With the garment right-side out, slide a double-pointed needle --or a 16" circular needle -- into the garment to the right of the sleeve opening (to keep the needle from slipping).  Identify the 8 [18] stitches that were cast at the bottom of the sleeve opening.  (Using a crochet hook,) pull yarn from the nearest scrap stitch through the top of the right-most of these stitches and then place the stitch back in scrap.  Do the same for the left-most stitch.   Pull yarn through the tops of the next 6 [16] stitches and slide onto the needle (making sure that the long end of the yarn is behind the needle).  (Pull the yarn from back to front through the top of knit stitches, and from front to back for purl stitches.)   (There are now 6 [16] stitches on the needle and 54 [74] stitches in scrap.)

Then k1, p2, k3, p2 from the stitches in scrap.  Work the k3p2 pattern around until there are no stitches in scrap. 

Work k3p2 around for 14 [18] rounds.  k3p2 to get to the center bottom of the sleeve.  Bind off.

Work the other sleeve the same way.  Weave in all loose ends, and the garment is complete.

 

Short-sleeve boat-neck raglan pullover - 3

Lower garment:  k2, p2 to reach the first marker.  Slip the stitches between the first and second markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn.  Cast on 5 [10] stitches, place marker, cast on 3 [8] more stitches.  Purl into next 2 stitches on needle (the first 2 stitches of the back).  Work patt (k3p2) to next marker.  Slip the stitches between the third and fourth markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn.  Cast on 8 [18] stitches.  Purl into next 2 stitches on needle.  (There are now 160 [210] stitches on the needle.)  Work patt (k3p2) to marker.

Work patt (k3p2) for 14 [18] rounds.  Then k in every stitch until garment is 2" shy of desired length.  (Do not switch to a smaller needle.) Work patt (k3p2) for 14 [18] rounds .  Bind off.

Short-sleeve boat-neck raglan sweater - 2

Upper garment

Each round for the upper body ends at the fifth stitch before the first marker.

For "m1" use invisible lifted increase (http://www.wonderful-things.com/newknit4a.htm) or any other increase.

R1: m1, k2, p2, (marker separating front and left sleeve), k2, m1, patt(k3p2), m1, k2, (marker separating left sleeve and back), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p2, (marker separating back and right sleeve), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (marker separating right sleeve and front), p2, k2, m1, patt

R2: k2, p2, (marker), k2, patt, k2, (marker), p2, k2, patt, k2, p2, (marker), k2, patt, k2, (marker), p2, k2, patt

Alternate R1 and R2 (ending w R2) until there are 64 [86] st between the markers on the back (and also front).  There will be 50 [72] st on each sleeve.

(For k2, patt, k2, I think it's looks better to always start and end the patt with a knit stitch even if it means that sometimes there will be a k6.)

Then do R1, R2, R2, R2 twice -- for 68 [88] st on the back (and front) and 54 [74] on each sleeve.

Then do * m1, k2, p2, (marker), k2, p1, patt, p1, k2, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p2, (marker), k2, p1, patt, p1, k2, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt * followed by 3 rounds of R2 for 70 [90] st on the back (and front) and 54 [74] on each sleeve.

Then * m1, k2, p2, (marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p2, (marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt followed by 3 rounds of R2 for 72 [92] st on the back (and front) and 54 [74] on each sleeve.

Then do R2 until the upper body is long enough to reach 2" below the underarm.  (Underarm seam should lie 2" below the actual underam.)

Short-sleeve boat-neck raglan sweater - 1

This pattern was inspired by http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring03/PATTbob.html.  The big difference is that the pattern is knitted in the round from the top down.  Two size 7 circular needles (or different lengths) and 12 oz of worsted weight yarn are used.  A set of size 7 double pointed needles (or a 16" long size 7 circular needle) and a crochet hook (optional) will also be needed.  (gauge: 4 st/inch, 6 rows/inch)

Changes for doubleknit (2-ply) yarn are in brackets.  (size 5 needles, gauge: 5.5 st/inch, 7.5 rows/inch)

Neck ribbing:  Using a 16" or 24" circular needle, cast on 100 [100] stitches, using chain cast on.  Join.  Work patt (k3p2) around for 4 [6] rows.  On last row, put markers before 1st, after 18th, after 50th, and after 68th stitch.  Stop at the fifth stitch before the first marker.  Check that the ribbing is not twisted and that there are 100 [100] stitches.

Increases

A good website for how to do increases, among other things, is:

http://www.wonderful-things.com/newknit4a.htm

test

I'm just adding this entry to see how it works.  I'll try to add some real entries later.  I've never created a web page/journal before.