Misc

Misc: Since I don't have any 16"-long circular needles, I use a pair of 29"-long needles to do necklines, etc.  I'll do one round with one needle and the next with the other, etc.  It works surprisingly well -- much better than double-pointed needles.  Plus when I'm half-way done with a round, I can try the garment on without fear of losing stitches.

Short-sleeve boat-neck raglan pullover

This pattern was inspired by http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring03/PATTbob.html. The biggest difference is that the pattern is knitted in the round from the top down. Directions are for worsted (4-ply) yarn and size 7 needles (gauge: 4 st/inch, 6 rows/inch). Changes for doubleknit (2-ply) yarn are in brackets. (size 5 needles, gauge: 5.5 st/inch, 7.5 rows/inch) This gives a sweater for a 14" neck and 40" around.

Neck ribbing: Using a 16" or 24" circular needle, cast on 80 [100] stitches, using chain cast on. Join by working patt into the first 5 stitches cast on. Work patt (k3p2) around for 6 [8] rows. On last row, put markers before 1st [1st], after 8th [13th], after 40th [50th], and after 48th [63rd] stitch. Stop at the fifth stitch before the first marker. Check that the ribbing is not twisted and that there are 80 [100] stitches.

Upper garment. Each round for the upper body ends at the raglan seam stitches just before the first marker. For "m1" use invisible lifted increase (http://www.wonderful-things.com/newknit4a.htm) or any other increase.

R1: m1, k2, p2, (marker separating front and left sleeve), k2, m1, patt(k3p2), m1, k2, (marker separating left sleeve and back), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p2, (marker separating back and right sleeve), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (marker separating right sleeve and front), p2, k2, m1, patt

R2: k3, p2, (marker), k3, patt, k3, (marker), p2, k3, patt, k3, p2, (marker), k3, patt, k3, (marker), p2, k3, patt

Alternate R1 and R2 (ending w R2) until there are 64 [89] st between the markers on the back (and also front). There will be 40 [65] st on each sleeve. Further, around each marker, there will be k4, p2, k4.

Then do R1, R2, R2, R2 twice -- for 68 [93] st on the back (and front) and 44 [69] on each sleeve.

Then do * m1, k2, p2, (marker), k2, p1, patt, p1, k2, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p2, (marker), k2, p1, patt, p1, k2, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt * followed by 3 rounds of R2 for 70 [95] st on the back (and front) and 44 [69] on each sleeve.

Then * m1, k2, p2, (marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt, m1,k2, p2, (marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, k2, m1, patt followed by 3 rounds of R2 for 72 [97] st on the back (and front) and 44 [69] on each sleeve.

Then do R2 until the upper body is long enough to reach 2" below the underarm. (Underarm seam should lie 2" below the actual underam.)

Lower garment: k2, p2 to reach the first marker. Slip the stitches between the first and second markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Using single cast on, cast on 8 [13] stitches. Purl into next 2 stitches on needle (the first 2 stitches of the back). Work patt (k3p2) to next marker. Slip the stitches between the third and fourth markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Cast on 8 [13] stitches. Purl into next 2 stitches on needle. (There are now 160 [210] stitches on the needle.) Work patt (k3p2) to marker.

Work patt (k3p2) for 14 [18] rounds, stopping under left underam seam. Then k in every stitch until garment is 2" shy of desired length. (For a more form-fitting garment, work patt throughout garment.) Do not switch to a smaller needle. Work patt (k3p2) for 14 [18] rounds . Bind off.

Sleeves: (There are 44 [69] stitches in scrap.) To start the sleeve: With the garment right-side out, slide a double-pointed needle --or a 16" circular needle -- into the garment to the right of the sleeve opening (to keep the needle from slipping). Identify the 8 [13] stitches that were cast on at the bottom of the sleeve opening. (Using a crochet hook,) pull yarn from the nearest scrap stitch through the top of the right-most of these stitches and then place the stitch back in scrap. Do the same for the left-most stitch. Pull yarn through the tops of the next 6 [11] stitches and slide onto the needle (making sure that the long end of the yarn is behind the needle). (Pull the yarn from back to front through the top of knit stitches, and from front to back for purl stitches.) (There are now 6 [11] stitches on the needle and 44 [69] stitches in scrap.)

Then k1, p2, k3, p2 from the stitches in scrap. Work the k3p2 pattern around until there are no stitches in scrap.

Work k3p2 around for 14 [18] rounds. k3p2 to get to the center bottom of the sleeve. Bind off.

Work the other sleeve the same way. Weave in all loose ends, and the garment is complete.

I'm about ready to change the directions for the boatneck pullover. I don't like the way the neck is divided in what I have already.
Of course, the directions as stand work perfectly well. But I always like to change things.
I commented to my daughter than when we cook together, food always turns out better. She said that was because I almost always change recipes as I cook unless she's there to stop me.