Monday, December 11, 2006

Top-down Crew-Neck Pullover

Top-down Crew-Neck Pullover
This is a slightly wider neck raglan with a crew neck knitted from the top down and in the round with size 3 needles. The neckline is done in garter stitch. The lower half of the pullover plus the sleeves below the elbow is from the Smock pullover pattern in Knitty.com.

Notes:
My gauge for Mystic Inca yarn (after washing) is 6 sts and 8 rows per inch w size 3 needles.
The raglan seams are 3 sts wide and consist of k3 on the RS -- p3 on the WS. Excluding the raglan seams, each sleeve initially consists of 10 sts, and the back 44 sts. There are initially 10 more sts to the front than the back. This difference disappears as yo's are made to the back but not the front.
The first line, in effect, says to knit the left sleeve, the left-back seam, the back, the right-back seam, and the right sleeve and then to wrap the yarn around 1 st of the front-right seam and then to turn the work. The second line says to purl all the sts knit in the previous row, making increases next to the raglan seams, and then wrap the yarn around 1 st of the front-left seam, before turning the work. In subsequent rows, previously wrapped sts are also knit or purled at the end of a row before wrapping the next stitch and turning. Stitches from the front seams and the garment front are picked up one or more sts at a time until the front neckline is low enough.
The yo increases should be knitted twisted in the next, RS, row or round. The direction of the yo is important, as well. It should be: \ seam / , when looking at the top of the needle from the RS. It will look like: / seam \ , when looking at the top of the needle from the WS.

For worsted weight with 4 sts and 6 rows per inch, cast on 86. Allot 3 sts per seam, 4 per sleeve, 28 for the back, 38 for the front. Co 10 at each underarm to give a garment circumference of 160 sts. The first row of the sleeve then has 56 sts in total.

Neckline:
CO 130, join
k one rnd, p one rnd 7 times.

Upper garment:
k70, w&t.
yo, p10, yo, p3, yo, p44, yo, p3, yo, p10, yo, w&t
k77, w&t. (The change in the sts knit comes from the yo's and the w&t's.)
p1, yo, p12, yo, p3, yo, p46, yo, p3, yo, p12, yo, p1, w&t
k85, w&t
p2, yo, p14, yo, p3, yo, p48, yo, p3, yo, p14, yo, p2, w&t
k93, w&t
p3, yo, p16, yo, p3, yo, p50, yo, p3, yo, p16, yo, p3, w&t

(front raglan seams now fully formed)


k101, w&t
p4, yo, p18, yo, p3, yo, p52, yo, p3, yo, p18, yo, p4, w&t
(number of st in back now equal to front)

k109, w&t
p2, yo, p3, yo, p20, yo, p3, yo, p54, yo, p3, yo, p20, yo, p3, yo, p2, w&t
k119, w&t
p4, yo, p3, yo, p22, yo, p3, yo, p56, yo, p3, yo, p22, yo, p3, yo, p4, w&t
k129, w&t

Continue in this manner until there are only 24-30 sts (4-5" worth of sts -- I chose 26 sts) left in front that haven't been worked -- in which case do not w&t on the last RS row. Instead start knitting in the round, as follows:

Note: When coming to the wrapped st that hasn't been worked yet, pick the wrap up and knit it with the adjacent/preceding st instead of the st it was wrapped around.

Rnd 1: *k to next "k3 seam", yo, k3, yo, k to next "k3 seam", yo, k3, yo* twice
Rnd 2: k around

Alternate Rnd's 1 and 2 until there are 58 sleeve sts (excluding the seam).
Then do Rnd 2 thrice followed by Rnd 1 until there are 66 sleeve sts.
Then do only Rnd 2 until top of garment is desired length. Then

*k to next "k3 seam", k1, co18, put next 70 sts on a spare circ needle or yarn (for the sleeve)* twice, k to 1 st before middle of left underarm. This (the left side) is now where rnds start and end. (240 total sts for garment)

Lower garment:
K around for 8 rnds (about 1").
Start smocking pattern, working the pattern on the RS and in the round (The original pattern is worked flat.):

Smocking Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 8 sts)
Rnds 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, & 7: *P2, k2* 60 times.
Rnd 4: *P2, smock (--insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st on left needle), k1, p2, k2* 30 times.
Rnd 8: *P2, k2, p2, smock (--insert right needle, from front to back, between 6th and 7th sts on left needle, wrap working yarn around right needle and pull loop through to front of work, place loop on left needle; k loop together with next st on left needle), k1* 30 times. (For the last repeat, the 6th and 7th sts on the left needle are beyond the end of the round.).

End with Rnd 2 or 6. Bind off loosely (single bind off, purl p sts, knit k sts).

Sleeves:
The directions for the sleeves are too complicated and lengthy to be added in this post. Instead, they are in my next post:

http://carol-myknittingpage.blogspot.com/2007/01/sleeve-for-dec-2006-raglan.html