Simple Crew-Neck Pullover -- knitted in the round from the top down. Directions are for worsted (4-ply) yarn and size 7 needles (gauge: 4 st/inch, 6 rows/inch). Changes for doubleknit (2-ply) yarn are in brackets. (size 5 needles, gauge: 5.5 st/inch, 7.5 rows/inch) This gives a sweater for a 14" neck and 38-40" around. The raglan seam is 5 stitches wide: k2, p1, k2, with the purl stitch belonging to the sleeve.
Neck ribbing: Using a 16" or 24" circular needle, cast on 72 [92] stitches, using chain cast on. Join by purling into the first stitch cast on. Work patt (k1p1) around for 4 [6] rows. On last row, put markers before 1st [1st], after 9th [11th], after 32nd [42nd], and after 41st [53 th] stitch. Check that the ribbing is not twisted. Then do p1, k7 [k9], p1, (marker), k23 [k31], (marker), p1, k7 [k9], p1, (marker), and k31 [k39]. Then purl around twice. Stop at the first marker.
Upper garment. For "m1" use invisible lifted increase (http://www.wonderful-things.com/newknit4a.htm) or any other increase. For "patt", k on right side of garment and p on wrong side.
R1: (right side) (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction
R2: (wrong side) p1, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction
R3: (right side) k1, (marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (marker), k3, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction
R4: (wrong side) p2, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p3, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction
R5: (right side) k2, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k4, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction
R6: (wrong side) p3, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p4, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction
R7: (right side) k3, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k5, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction
R8: (wrong side) p4, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p5, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction
(The number of front garment stitches should equal the number of back garment, i.e.: 31 [39].)
Stitches (in the front garment) that have not been picked up are referred to as scrap.
R9: (right side) patt, m1, k2, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, m1, patt, k one stitch from scrap, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction
R10: (wrong side) patt, p2, (fourth marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (third marker), p2, patt, p2, (second marker), k1, p2, patt, p2, k1, (marker), p2, patt, p one stitch from scrap, return last stitch to right-hand needle, reverse direction
Repeat R’s 9-10 until there are only 11 [15] stitches left in scrap.
R9a: (right side) patt, m1, k2, (first marker), p1, k2, m1, patt , m1, k2, p1, (second marker), k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, m1, patt, m1, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, m1, patt
R9b: (right side) patt, k2, (first marker), p1, k2, patt , k2, p1, (second marker), k2, patt, k2, (third marker), p1, k2, patt, k2, p1, (fourth marker), k2, patt
Then alternate R 9a with R 9b until there are 63 [83] st on the back (and front) and 49 [63] on each sleeve
Then do R9a, R9b, R9b, R9b four times -- for 69 [89] st on the back (and front) and 55 [69] on each sleeve.
Then do R9b until the upper body is long enough to reach 2" below the underarm. (Underarm seam should lie 2" below the actual underarm.)
Lower garment: patt to reach the first marker. Slip the stitches between the first and second markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Using single cast on, cast on 7 [15] stitches. Work patt (on the garment back) to next marker. Slip the stitches between the third and fourth markers (sleeve) onto a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn. Cast on 7 [15] stitches. (There are now 152 [208] stitches on the needle.)
Work patt until garment is 2" shy of desired length. Do not switch to a smaller needle. Starting under left armhole, work ribbing (k1p1) for 14 [18] rounds . Bind off.
Sleeves: (There are 55 [69] stitches in scrap.) To start the sleeve: With the garment right side out, slide a double-pointed needle --or a 16" circular needle -- into the garment to the right of the sleeve opening (to keep the needle from slipping). Identify the 7-[15] stitches that were cast on at the bottom of the sleeve opening. (Using a crochet hook,) pull yarn from the nearest scrap stitch through the top of the right most of these stitches and then place the stitch back in scrap. Do the same for the left-most stitch. Pull yarn through the tops of the next 5[13] stitches and slide onto the needle (making sure that the long end of the yarn is behind the needle). (Pull the yarn from back to front through the top of knit stitches, and from front to back for purl stitches.) (There are now 5 [13] stitches on the needle and 53 [67] stitches in scrap.)
Then work patt from the stitches in scrap.
Work patt around for 6 [8] rounds, stopping at the center bottom of the sleeve and decreasing 2 stitches every 3rd round. Work ribbing (k1p1) for 10 [14] rounds. Bind off.
Work the other sleeve the same way. Weave in all loose ends, and the garment is complete.
